Cozumel is 53 km (33 mi) long and 15 km (9 mi) wide, and its main paved roads are excellent. The dirt roads, however, are another story; they're too deeply rutted for most rental cars. Streets in congested neighborhoods and remote areas flood quickly in heavy rains and are tough to navigate in heavy traffic no matter the weather. Many roads underwent significant rebuilding after Wilma and are better than ever. But the island's windward side and rapidly developing interior lack the infrastructure to handle severe storms.
Cozumel's main road is Avenida Rafael E. Melgar, which runs along the island's western shore. South of San Miguel, the road is known as Carretera Chankanaab or Carretera Sur; it runs past hotels, shops, and the international cruise-ship terminals. South of town, the road splits into two parallel lanes, with the right lane reserved for slower motor-scooter and bicycle traffic. After Parque Chankanaab, the road passes several excellent beaches and a cluster of resorts. At Cozumel's southernmost point, the road turns northeast; beyond that point, it's known simply as "the coastal road." North of San Miguel, Avenida Rafael E. Melgar becomes Carretera Norte along the North Hotel Zone and ends near the Cozumel Country Club.
Alongside Avenida Rafael E. Melgar in San Miguel is the 14-km (9-mi) walkway called the malecón. The sidewalk by the water is relatively uncrowded; the other side, packed with shops and restaurants, gets clogged with crowds when cruise ships are in port. Avenida Juárez, Cozumel's other major road, stretches east from the pier for 16 km (10 mi), dividing town and island into north and south.
San Miguel is laid out in a grid. Avenidas are roads that run north or south; they're numbered in increments of five. A road that starts out as an "avenida norte" turns into an "avenida sur" when it crosses Avenida Juárez. Calles are streets that run east-west; those north of Avenida Juárez have even numbers (Calle 2 Norte, Calle 4 Norte), whereas those south have odd numbers (Calle 1 Sur, Calle 3 Sur).
Plaza Central, or la plaza, the heart of San Miguel, is directly across from the docks. Residents congregate here in the evenings, especially on weekends, when free concerts begin at 8. Shops and restaurants abound in the square. Heading inland (east) takes you away from the tourist zone and toward the residential sections. The heaviest commercial district is concentrated between Calle 10 Norte and Calle 11 Sur to beyond Avenida Pedro Joaquin Coldwell.