The Quieter Cozumel

The Quieter Cozumel

Blazing-white cruise ships parade in and out of Cozumel as if competing in a big-time regatta. Rare is the day there isn't a white behemoth looming on the horizon. Typically, hundreds of day-trippers wander along the waterfront, packing franchise jewelry and souvenir shops and drinking in tourist-trap bars. Precious few explore the beaches and streets favored by locals.

Travelers staying in Cozumel's one-of-kind hotels experience a totally different island. They quickly learn to stick close to the beach and pool when more than two ships are in port (some days the island gets six). If you're lucky enough to stay overnight, consider these strategies for avoiding the crowds.

1. Time your excursions. Go into San Miguel for early breakfast and errands, then stay out of town for the rest of the day. Wander back after you hear the ships blast their departure warnings (around 5 PM or 6 PM).

2. Dive in. Hide from the hordes by slipping underwater. But be sure to choose a small dive operation that travels to less popular reefs.

3. Drive on the wild side. Rent a car and cruise the windward coast, still free of rampant construction. You can picnic and sunbathe on private beaches hidden by limestone outcroppings. Use caution when swimming; the surf can be rough.

4. Frequent the "other" downtown. The majority of Cozumel's residents live and shop far from San Miguel's waterfront. Avenidas 15, 20, and 25 are packed with taco stands, stationery stores (or papelerías), farmacias, and neighborhood markets. Driving here is a nightmare. Park on a quieter side street and explore the shops and neighborhoods to glimpse a whole different side of Cozumel.