Fodor's Expert Review El Mesón del Angel

You might think you've stumbled into a country inn when you make your way up the blue-tile steps. Inside are cheery lacy curtains and stained-glass windows. The owner is from Madrid, so the menu is full of dishes like paella a la valenciana (rice with seafood and sausage) and arroz negro (rice with squid ink). There's a wine list with plenty of Spanish vintages.