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Creeping out from under the shadow of Puebla, Cholula is gradually being restored to something of its former greatness. Before the Spanish conquest, the ancient settlement west of Puebla had hundreds of temples and rivaled Teotihuacán as a cultural and ceremonial center. On his arrival, Cortés ordered every temple destroyed and replaced by a church. However, the claim that Cholula has
365 church cupolas, one for every day in the year, is to be taken with a grain of salt.
The colonial town of Cuetzalan in the Sierra Norte region is one of the most precious and unspoiled attractions in the state of Puebla. The...