The Highlands Sights

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1. Iglesia de Santo Tomás

Standing watch over the square is this gleaming white Dominican church, Guatemala's most intriguing, busy with worshippers all day and late into the night. The structure dates from 1540, built on the site of an ancient temple, and locals say a block of stone near the massive front doors is all that remains of the altar. The Quiché people still consider Chichicastenango their spiritual city. Perhaps no church in the country better represents the concept of syncretism, the blending of theologies, than does Santo Tomás. Church officials look the other way as Mayan ceremonies are still practiced here today. In fact, once the daily 9 am mass ends, the rest of the day and evening are given over to indigenous rituals conducted by shamans (curanderos in Spanish, or chuchkajaues in Quiché), who wave around pungent incense during the day, and at night toss rose petals and pine needles into a raging fire right on the steps of the church as part of purification rituals. Take care: If you are at all sensitive to heavy fragrance, the incense aroma can be overpowering. The age-old ritual has darkened the once-white steps—18 steps correspond to the months in the Mayan calendar—leading to the church entrance. Outsiders should not pass through the front doors. Instead, enter through the door via the courtyard on the building's right side. Also, under no circumstances should you take photos inside the church. Inside, candles are affixed to 12 tablets embedded in the floor, four each representing sun, moon, and rain. Curanderos place conjoined candles there on behalf of married couples, solitary candles on behalf of single people. Yellow candles represent entreaties for business affairs; blue, for rain; green, for agriculture; and white, for health.

2. Academia Hispanomaya

3. Adrenalina Tours

4. Artesanos de San Juan

Artesanos de San Juan is a cooperative of 58 artisans who weave textiles and sell from their showroom just north of the dock.

5. Atitlán Solutions

In Panajachel, both Atitlán Solutions

6. Atitrans

7. Capilla de Calvario

Across from the Iglesia de Santo Tomás is this squat little chapel. It doesn't attract the attention that its much larger neighbor does, but from its steep steps—there are 13, to acknowledge the months in the lunar calendar, or the 13 movements of the body (neck, shoulders, elbows, wrists, hips, knees, and ankles)—you'll have a nice view of the market. As with the Santo Tomás church, photography is prohibited inside.

8. Casa Rosario Spanish School

9. Catedral de la Inmaculada Concepción

The butter-yellow Catedral de la Inmaculada Concepción stands guard over the main square, and dates from 1874.

10. Catedral del Espíritu Santo/Catedral de los Altos

On the southeastern corner of Parque Centro América, this cathedral dates from 1535. All that remains of the original building (Espíritu Santo) is the facade, which features life-size saints that look down upon worshippers headed here to pray and is offset to the left of the newer cathedral (Los Altos), with its own front, constructed in 1899.

11. Cementerio

Filled with brightly painted mausoleums, the town's cemetery is one of the most colorful in the highlands. You'll be treated to wonderful views of the city's red rooftops. Among the headstones topped with crosses you'll doubtless find candles and incense—evidence of Mayan rituals. We recommend visiting only with an INGUAT guide. A few robberies of tourists have occurred. If you don't want to walk all the way to the cemetery, you can still get a nice photo from the street in front of the Mayan Inn.

12. Corazón Maya Spanish School

13. Iglesia de San Antonio Palopó

The beautiful adobe Iglesia de San Antonio Palopó stands in a stone plaza that marks the center of town. The interior is particularly peaceful. During the day the steps are a meeting place where all passersby are sure to stop for a while.

14. Iglesia de San Jacinto

The town's Iglesia de San Jacinto dates from 1524 and is said to be the oldest surviving church in Central America. It suffered severe structural damage in a 2001 earthquake.

15. Iglesia de San Nicolás

This bluish church on the east side of Parque Benito Juárez is known for its unusual baroque design. Although lovely, it looks a bit out of place in the town's mix of Greek Revival and colonial structures.

16. Iglesia de Santiago Apóstol

The main road leads to the squat white 1547 Iglesia de Santiago Apóstol, the church dedicated to town patron, St. James the Apostle, but where Tzutuhil deities can be seen in the woodwork around the pulpit. Fondly remembered onetime American parish priest Father Stanley Rother was assassinated in the church rectory by right-wing death squads in 1981 for his outspoken support of the Tzutuhil cause.

17. Iglesia San Miguel Arcángel

Totonicapán's main church, the Iglesia San Miguel Arcángel, dedicated to its patron, the archangel Michael, dates from 1545, although much of what you see is actually post-earthquake reconstruction done in the late 19th century.

18. Jabel Tinamit

19. Jardín de América

20. K'umarcaaj

North of town is K'umarcaaj, the ancient capital of the Quiché kingdom. This once-magnificent site was destroyed by Spanish conquistadors in 1524. The ruins haven't been restored, but they are frequently used for Mayan rituals. A taxi to and from the ruins should cost less than Q60. You can also walk the pleasant 3-km (2-mi) route without much difficulty. Follow 10 Calle out of town, where it becomes a dirt road. A tight S curve is the halfway point. The road forks at the bottom of a hill; take the road to the right.