San Lucas Tolimán, in the shadow of the Tolimán volcano, is the first town you encounter if approaching Lake Atitlán from the south. (It lies a mere 50 km (30 mi) north of Highway CA-2, which runs through the Pacific lowlands.) San Lucas hosts a Tuesday and Friday market with some decent buys on textiles and baskets. It is also home to one of the lake's nicest lodgings. Several private nature reserves dot the area just outside of town. The folks at the Hotel Tolimán can hook you up with a guided tour.
When there was every reason in the world to stay away and see the ruins, one woman traveled to Greece to get to work.More