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This impressive rain-forest lagoon was the seat of a 6th-century kingdom that extended south as far as the Verapaces and east to present-day Belize. It was ruled by a power-hungry prince whom historians designate simply as Ruler I. He is thought to have fled Tikal and engaged in battles for territory from two twin capitals, Dos Pilas and Aguateca.
A mellow little town on the eastern shore of Lago Petén Itzá, El Remate is known mostly for its wood carvings, made by families that have dedicated...