A night in this restored colonial mansion is a journey back in time. All rooms have soaring ceilings and gorgeous tile floors, and are set around two large courtyards and several smaller gardens. A tile fountain trickles in the dining room, which is on a garden terrace; to the side, a woman prepares tortillas on a piping-hot grill. Indulge in a serving of Antigua flan, a dessert layered with figs and sweet potatoes. Light sleepers, beware: the lively marimba band can sometimes
play long into the night. The lodging is part of a two-hotel chain, with another branch in Panajachel; a stay at both places in a single trip gets you a 10% discount off the rates.