By Car in Antigua and Western Highlands

The roads around Antigua are mostly well paved, so drives through the countryside can be quite pleasant. Keep on your guard, though, as other vehicles may ignore traffic laws and common sense. As one jovial man behind the wheel of a bus recently said, "All drivers in Guatemala are crazy."

To reach Antigua, drive west out of Guatemala City via the Calzada Roosevelt, which becomes the Pan-American Highway. Signs direct you either to antigua or antigua guatemala. At San Lucas Sacatepéquez turn right off the highway and drive south to Antigua. The last several kilometers before Antigua have a steep descent. Note the frene con motor warnings ("engine brake")—use your lowest gear—and the "rampa de emergencia signs for the emergency off-ramps for vehicles whose brakes give out. If you're coming from the highlands, head south near Chimaltenango.

If you want to rent a car to explore Antigua, it's a good idea to do so in Guatemala City's Aeropuerto Internacional La Aurora. In Antigua, reputable local agencies are Ahorrent and Tabarini.

Local Car Rental Agencies

Ahorrent (6 C. Poniente 29 A. 2332-7744. www.ahorrent.com). Tabarini (6 Av. Sur 22. 7832-8107. www.tabarini.com).