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With the exception of Tortuguero, this region is one of the country's most accessible. The southern coast is a three- to four-hour drive from San José, over mostly decent roads (by Costa Rican standards), and public transportation is frequent and reliable. Gas stations are plentiful between Guápiles and Limón, but their numbers dwindle to two on the southern coast between Limón and Puerto Viejo de Talamanca. The northern Caribbean coast is another story: The total absence of roads means you have to arrive by plane or boat. Most travelers go with a tour booked through one of the large Tortuguero lodges.

If you're driving here, remember that fog often covers the mountains in Braulio Carrillo National Park, north of San José, by early afternoon. Cross this area in the morning if you can. Always exercise utmost caution on the portion of highway that twists and turns through the park: You'll share the highway with large trucks. Check road conditions before you set out; occasional landslide closures through Braulio Carrillo necessitate leaving San José from the southeast, passing through Cartago, Paraíso, and Turrialba (See The Central Valley, Chapter 5), then rejoining the Caribbean Highway at Siquirres, a detour that adds a tiring extra 90 to 120 minutes onto your trip.