Tortuguero and the Caribbean Coast Restaurants

The many open-air dining spots out here provide you with that ultimate tropical dining experience, with Puerto Viejo de Talamanca offering one of Costa Rica’s most varied dining scenes. Think seafood, chicken, coconut, and fruits in the Caribbean. Restaurateurs take advantage of the bounty of the land and sea in this part of the country.

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  • 1. El Refugio Grill

    $$$

    This tiny rancho-style restaurant in the middle of a forest clearing is one of Costa Rica's top Argentine restaurants. The menu varies throughout the year and might consist of beef in chimichurri sauce, spinach crepes, curried shrimp, mussels in white wine, or grilled tuna. For lunch, options are more casual with burgers and sandwiches. All meals here kick off with homemade chips and guacamole, a house specialty. The place feels remote and, indeed, you’re a long way from most lodgings when you’re out here in Punta Uva. Take a taxi to and from if you’re without your own wheels.

    Punta Uva, Puerto Viejo de Talamanca, Limón, 70403, Costa Rica
    2759–9007

    Known For

    • Intimate and secluded forest setting
    • Hearty Argentine menu
    • Homemade guacamole and chips

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Wed., Reservations essential
  • 2. Aroma, Coffee Bar & Breakfast

    $$

    Fortify yourself for a day of sightseeing with a vegan breakfast, perhaps banana pancakes or crepes, at this semi-open-air spot. For lunch, dig into a variety of vegan burgers and salads (mango is a favorite) with fruit cheesecakes for dessert. Accompany it all with a selection of gourmet coffees, milkshakes, or smoothies—the banana-coffee smoothie is one of the innovative flavors these folks have concocted. Decorated in lots of red, the space may be small, but they'll squeeze you in.

    Cahuita, Limón, Costa Rica
    8808–6445

    Known For

    • Great selection of smoothies
    • Cheery owners
    • Extensive vegan menu, a rarity in Costa Rica

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Thurs. No dinner
  • 3. Bread & Chocolate

    $$

    The takeaway line for brownies—made with their own processed cocoa—forms at the gate before this place opens at 6:30 am. Stick around, though, for a hearty breakfast of cinnamon-oatmeal pancakes, French toast, or creamy scrambled eggs, washed down with a cup of French-press coffee.

    Puerto Viejo de Talamanca, Limón, 70403, Costa Rica
    2750–0723

    Known For

    • Jerk chicken
    • Fresh-baked goods
    • Homemade sauces

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Mon. No dinner
  • 4. Budda Café

    $

    Pizza, crepes, pastas, and fresh fish are on the menu at this small, canal-side café in the center of town. Wood lattice over the windows, a thatch roof, and, not surprisingly, a small Buddha statue make up the furnishings. Ambient chill out music might be playing in the background.

    Next to police station, Tortuguero, Limón, 70205, Costa Rica
    2709–8084

    Known For

    • Good cocktail selection
    • Friendly service
    • Cool canal-side setting
  • 5. Cheeky Monkey

    $$

    Flatbread pizza is the name of the game at this dining spot, which you'll see as you head out of town toward Playa Cocles. The folks here come up with some innovative combinations, such as date and gorgonzola or camote (a Central American sweet potato) with jalapeño and chimichurri sauce, in addition to more standard pizzas. In the morning, there's a variety of breakfast panini and eggs. A good selection of cocktails and Cheeky Monkey’s homemade ice cream round out the offerings.

    Puerto Viejo de Talamanca, Limón, Costa Rica
    2750–0530

    Known For

    • Inventive pizza toppings
    • Homemade ice cream
    • Good cocktail selection
  • Recommended Fodor’s Video

  • 6. Como en Mi Casa ArtCafe

    $

    Everything is made on-site at this small second-floor café. Start off the day with an order of vegan pancakes and fruit smoothie, or ease into lunch with veggie burritos and a tomato, oregano, and olive oil bruschetta. You'll find some gluten-free options on the menu, too. Bopping tunes make for an upbeat vibe, and there is a nice balcony with Wi-Fi for dining outdoors.

    100 meters (328 feet) east of bus stop, Puerto Viejo de Talamanca, Limón, 70403, Costa Rica
    8674–2853

    Known For

    • Fresh homemade bread
    • Friendly service
    • Many gluten-free offerings

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Tues. No dinner
  • 7. Dorling's Bakery

    $

    What this small bakery misses in ambience and decor, it makes up for in quality baked goods to go. This is a great place to stop for breads made with banana, carrot, and natilla (sour cream), or for something more substantial, grab pizza, pasta, or sandwiches before a day of sightseeing. 

    Tortuguero, Limón, 70205, Costa Rica
    2767–0444

    Known For

    • Hearty, fortifying breakfasts
    • Canal views
    • Variety of breads

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: No dinner
  • 8. Dread Nut Coffee

    $

    An easy-to-miss Caribbean-style clapboard house near the bus stop makes a great place to fortify yourself for a day of sightseeing. The industrious staff here start the day with omelets and freshly baked banana bread, bagels,and pastries, and lunch gives way to a variety of sandwiches—you choose from ingredients to construct your own.

    50 m east of bus stop, Puerto Viejo de Talamanca, Limón, 70403, Costa Rica
    8995–6103

    Known For

    • Homemade ice cream
    • Cool tropical vibe
    • Organic coffee

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: No dinner
  • 9. Miss Edith

    $

    Miss Edith—women in Caribbean communities are addressed as "Miss" regardless of marital status—is revered for her flavorful Caribbean cooking, vegetarian meals, and herbal teas for whatever ails you. She dishes up food (albeit at a slower pace than you might be used to back home) at her semi-open-air restaurant on an easy-to-miss street at the north end of town. Jerk chicken and rondón, a fish stew, are specialties (the latter is quite labor-intensive; stop by in the afternoon to see if it will be on the menu that night). There is a bit of Christian overlay here—a Jesús te ama (Jesus loves you) sign greets you at the entrance—but nothing about the place crosses a line into proselytizing.

    75 m east of police station, Cahuita, Limón, 70403, Costa Rica
    2755–0248

    Known For

    • Jerk chicken
    • Rondón (fish stew)
    • Jesus-themed decor

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: No credit cards
  • 10. Pizzeria Cahuita

    $$

    Pastas and meat entrées are on the menu, but the real draw here is the 30 varieties of thin-crust pizza whipped up and served with style by a gregarious Italian family from Ravenna. The Cuatro Quesos (four cheeses) with mozzarella, Gorgonzola, Parmesan, and fontina is the most popular. These folks do a brisk carry-out business, too. Note that prices do skew higher here than for a comparable "family pizza night" back home.

    Cahuita, Limón, 70403, Costa Rica
    2755–0179

    Known For

    • Handmade ravioli
    • Friendly service
    • Takeout

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Thurs.
  • 11. Sel & Sucre

    $

    The sel (salt) in this restaurant's name reflects the ham, chicken, spinach, goat cheese, and roasted almonds you'll find as ingredients in a huge selection of crepes. Sucre (sugar) shows up in the sweet versions of crepes, with the Grand Marnier a special standout. Light side salads, waffles, and cheese fondue round out the menu. Top it all off with a gourmet coffee or fruit smoothie.

    120 m south of bus stop, Puerto Viejo de Talamanca, Limón, 70403, Costa Rica
    2750–0636

    Known For

    • Cheese fondue
    • Gourmet coffee
    • Fruit smoothies

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Mon.
  • 12. Selvin's

    $$

    Blanca, the owner of this longtime standby at Punta Uva, cooks up a menu of rondón, rice and beans, lobster, shrimp, and chicken with sweet mole sauce. The cool breezes of the seaside setting could not be more pleasant. Selvin's keeps limited, sometimes irregular hours, especially in the off-season, so always call ahead and head out here if you're fortunate enough to be in town when it's open.

    Puerto Viejo de Talamanca, Limón, 70403, Costa Rica
    2750–0664

    Known For

    • Hearty Caribbean cooking
    • Friendly service
    • Irregular hours

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Mon.–Thurs.
  • 13. Sobre Las Olas

    $$

    The name means "over the waves," and this is one of the few dining spots in Cahuita perched this close to the shore. Red snapper is the house specialty, but other seafood and pasta dishes are on the menu, too, along with affordable sandwiches and lighter fare. The menu has a good selection of wine and natural fruit juices. Set along the less busy stretch of Playa Negra (as you head out of town), the admittedly spartan dining area features terrific ocean views that perfectly complement the food.

    Playa Negra road, just north of El Encanto, Cahuita, Limón, 70403, Costa Rica
    6074–7573

    Known For

    • Good wine selection
    • Fresh sushi
    • Terrific ocean views

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Wed.

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