Sweeping ocean views, impeccably appointed accommodations, and lots of tropical-foliage privacy make this lodge the area's most romantic. Planted in an exquisite jungle garden on a ridge jutting into the Pacific, the elegant, spacious wooden ranchos (small houses), placed strategically for total privacy, have bedroom lofts, spiffy bathrooms, and large, breezy porches with wicker furniture. Interiors are enlivened with lots of tropical color and local artisan touches,
from ceramic sink basins painted with flowers and birds to glass-topped side tables showcasing local shells. Numbers 1 and 3, aptly called "sunset ranchos," have the best sea views. Four "standard" rooms in a shared building are anything but standard: recently remodeled and upgraded, they're spacious and luxurious, with king-size beds; jungle, garden, and ocean views; and, new this year, air conditioning. Room D has a wraparound deck overlooking an expanse of jungle that will delight bird-watchers. Take a dip in the small pool, or head down the hill to Playa Cocolito, the lodge's gem of a beach. Diving trips and certification courses, river kayaking, and nature tours with private guides are highlight activities. The flower-filled, fan-cooled restaurant serves excellent tropical fare, and there's always afternoon tea and home-baked treats. Sophisticated, four-course dinners—with vegetarian options—are served at a long communal table, giving guests a chance to meet and share experiences. The lodge now has the added luxury of electricity (and hairdryers) with a generator backup. Service is a highlight here: personal, enthusiastic and polished. There's a three-night minimum stay; the three-night package ($920 to $1,245 per person) is the best bet, since it includes all meals and two tours.