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Manuel Antonio Review

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Manuel Antonio

  • Address: From San Jose, 3 1/2 hours by car, 4 hours by bus
  • Phone: 777-0654

Fodor's Review:

Good things come in small packages. Case in point, Manuel Antonio National Park, a small park that packs in an impressive collection of natural attractions: lots of wildlife, rain forest, white-sand beaches, coral reefs, and rocky coves with abundant marine life. Trails are short, well maintained, and easy to walk. The forest is dominated by massive ficus and gumbo-limbo trees, and is home to two- and three-toed sloths, green and black iguanas, aguotis, four species of monkeys, and nearly 200 species of birds.

Make no mistake about it: Manuel Antonio is no undiscovered wilderness. It's one of Costa Rica's most-visited attractions, so if you're looking for an undisturbed natural oasis, this is not it. But what Manuel Antonio does have is great diversity of wildlife, all easily spotted from the well-marked trails. And because animals are so used to humans, this is one of the best places to see them up close.

From the ranger station a trail leads through the rain forest behind Playa Espadilla Sur, the park's longest beach. It's also the least crowded because the water can be rough. Riptides are brutal at Playa Espadilla when the surf is up; more than a few unsuspecting tourists have been swept away. Snorkeling, however, is good in the tidal pools. The coral reefs and submerged volcanic rocks of whitesand Playa Manuel Antonio also make for good snorkeling. The 1/2-mile-long beach, tucked into a deep cove, is safe for swimming. At low tide you can see the remains of a Quepos Indian turtle trap on the right-the Quepos stuck poles in the semicircular rock formation, which trapped turtles as the tide receded. Olive ridley and green turtles come ashore on this beach May through November. Espadilla and Manuel Antonio beaches lie on opposite sides of a tombolo, or a sandy strip that connects the mainland to Punta Catedral (Cathedral Point), which used to be an island. The steep path that leads up Punta Catedral's rocky hill draped with thick jungle, passes a lookout point from which you can gaze over the Pacific at the park's islands. Theft is a problem on the beaches; don't leave your belongings unattended while you swim and don't leave anything of value in your car.

Farther east, Playa Escondido (Hidden Beach) is rocky and secluded, but it's also more difficult to access. Before you head out to Escondido, find out when the tides come in so you're not stranded. Playa Playita, south of Escondido, is Costa Rica's only nude beach, though unofficially so. It also tends to be a favorite of gay sun-seekers. It's quiet and secluded. Kayaking trips might take you down to Punta Serrucho near the southern border of the park, whose jagged peaks explain its name. (Serrucho means "saw."

Trails from the entrance to Punta Catedral and Playa Manuel Antonio are in good shape. Trails farther east to Escondido and Playita are progressively rougher going.

  • Cost: $7
  • Open: Tues.-Sun. 7-4

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