The approach to the town of Santa Cruz from the east is like a giant pit stop, with one car-parts shop after another. One of the few reasons to visit is to eat at Coope-Tortillas, where you can watch hand-rolled corn tortillas being cooked the old-fashioned way over an open fire. Friendly women in blue uniforms, members of a local women's cooperative, heap your plate with your choice of traditional Guanacasteco foods and bring it to one of the picnic tables in a high-ceilinged, corrugated-metal building. Try the delicious arroz de maiz, a corn stew. The restaurant is open 4 AM to 5 PM. Tortillas sometimes run out before 4 PM.
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