If fresh mountain air appeals to you, this upscale mountain retreat has comfortable rooms, a first-class restaurant, and spacious, glassed-in sitting areas to enjoy unbeatable volcano and valley views by day and blazing fireplaces by night. The large standard rooms are furnished with a tasteful mix of antiques and folk art, and upstairs rooms have private balconies. The new suites, in a separate, two-story building, have kitchenettes and flat-screen satellite TV. Goats, chickens, and ducks on the property help supply the kitchen, which prepares a mix of creative, light, tropical cuisine and heartier dishes, including duck stew and seared duck breasts. Cooking classes can be arranged with a local Costa Rican chef. Outside, there are sunny sitting areas in the garden and a path lined with orchids.