If you want to experience the area's well-known vibe but have outgrown Puerto Viejo's backpacker digs—we all do eventually—this lodging owned by a fun, transplanted California couple is the ticket. Four large, sparkling, brightly colored rooms ramble throughout the house. All have air-conditioning and dehumidifiers—a rarity here—as well as safes and flat-screen TVs. Covered lounge areas with huts and benches are scattered around the gardens here and are cooled,
literally, by ceiling fans and, figuratively, by soft Caribbean beats.