By Car in The Cayo

Other than the well-maintained two-lane Western Highway, most roads in the Cayo are unpaved and dusty in the dry season, muddy in the rainy season. To get to the Cayo, simply follow the Western Highway from Belize City. Watch out for "sleeping policemen" (speed bumps) near villages along the route.

Coming into San Ignacio is a little confusing. As you go through the "twin town" of Santa Elena and head into San Ignacio, you'll see the Hawksworth Bridge straight ahead. The bridge is one way coming from the west but this is not well marked; those coming from the east and unfamiliar with the area often try to drive across the bridge the wrong way. A sign noting a detour has now been erected, directing vehicles to another bridge.

To keep from running afoul of traffic rules, turn right before the Hawksworth Bridge, following the detour to what is called the "lower bridge" or "low lying bridge." Cross this and follow Savanah Road around the sports stadium and, if you're lucky, you'll soon end up back on Western Highway just to the west of San Ignacio. Alternatively, after you cross the river, you can turn left and go through to Burns Avenue, the main street in town.

From San Ignacio, the Western Highway continues on about 9 mi (15 km) to the Guatemala border. This stretch is locally known as the Benque Road.

From the Western Highway, there are two routes into the Mountain Pine Ridge, both just east of San Ignacio: the Mountain Pine Ridge Road (also sometimes called the Chiquibul Road or the Georgeville Road), at Georgeville at Mile 61.6 of the Western Highway, and the Cristo Rey Road, with the turnoff at Mile 66.5 of the Western Highway. From the Western Highway, the entrance to the Mountain Pine Ridge is 10.2 mi (17 km) via the Mountain Pine Ridge Road and 14.8 mi (25 km) via the Cristo Rey Road. Both roads, cut through limestone, are rough, but currently the Georgeville Road is rougher. The first mile of the Cristo Rey Road is paved, as well as a few short sections farther on. If coming from Belmopan you'll save a little time by taking the first road you see, at Georgeville, but if coming from San Ignacio or points west, take the Cristo Rey Road. Large green road signs clearly mark both turns.

Heading southeast from San Ignacio on the Cristo Rey Road, a little beyond San Antonio, the Cristo Rey Road meets the Mountain Pine Ridge Road coming from Georgeville. Turn right to go into the Mountain Pine Ridge. After 2½ mi (4 km), a guard at a gatehouse will record your name, destination, and license plate number. The main road through the Mountain Pine Ridge to Caracol is being improved, partly to provide better access to Caracol and also due to the construction of the Challilo Dam and other dams on the Macal River. Some of the roads in the Pine Ridge have names, but most have numerical monikers, like A10. The main road through the Mountain Pine Ridge that passes the four area lodges and Douglas DiSilva village (also known as Augustine village) is mostly a dirt road that can become almost impassable after heavy rains.

To get to Spanish Lookout, the Mennonite area, from the Western Highway there are two options. One is to turn north off the Western Highway at about Mile 63. This road is unpaved and requires you to cross the Belize River on a hand-pulled ferry. The other option is what the Mennonites call Route 30. It heads north at about Mile 57½ of the Western Highway, is beautifully paved, and has a bridge over the river.

The Bullet Tree Road from San Ignacio to Bullet Tree village is now paved.

Information

Cayo Auto Rentals (81 Benque Rd., San Ignacio. 824/2222. www.cayoautorentals.com). Safe Tours Belize (Western Hwy., Santa Elena. 824/3731).