Yours truly can ask to work the crank yourself as you ride a hand-pulled ferry across the Mopan River, near the village of San José Succotz, toward the archaeological site of Xunantunich (pronounced shoo-nan-too-nitch), which means "stone maiden." As you hike through the profusion of maidenhair ferns to the ruins, you'll encounter numerous butterflies flitting through the air. A magnificent avenue of cohune palms announces your arrival at an important ceremonial center from the Maya Classic Period. Drinks and snacks are available at a visitor center that provides the history of the site. El Castillo, the massive 120-foot-high main pyramid, was built on a leveled hilltop. The pyramid has a spectacular 360-degree panorama of the Mopan River valley into Guatemala. On the eastern wall is a reproduction of one of the finest Mayan sculptures in Belize, a frieze decorated with jaguar heads, human faces, and abstract geometric patterns telling the story of the Moon's affair with Morning Light.
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