Orientation & Planning

Orientation & Planning

Orientation

The Cayo's main connection to the coast is the Western Highway, a paved two-lane road running 78 mi (128 km) between Belize City and the Guatemala border. The highway is in generally good condition, but shoulders are narrow, and parts of the highway can be slick after rains. Secondary roads, mostly unpaved and sometimes difficult to drive on, branch off the Western Highway, leading to small villages and to the Mountain Pine Ridge, the Spanish Lookout Mennonite area, and various jungle lodges. The Mountain Pine Ridge is crisscrossed by an extensive network of gravel and dirt roads, some formerly logging trails.

At Belmopan, the paved Hummingbird Highway is Belize's most scenic road, cutting 54 mi (90 km) southeast through the Maya Mountains to Dangriga, passing Five Blues Lake and Blue Hole national parks. Mile markers on the Hummingbird start in Dangriga.

Planning

When to Go

The best time to visit the Cayo is late fall and winter, when temperatures generally are moderate. During the dry season, late February or March to May or early June, at the lower elevations around San Ignacio and Belmopan, daytime temperatures can reach 100°F, though it does cool off at night. Seasonal rains usually reach the Cayo in June. In summer, after the rains begin, temperatures moderate a little, but humidity increases. Year-round the Mountain Pine Ridge is noticeably cooler and less humid than anywhere else in Belize.

Safety in the Cayo

Although most visitors report feeling completely safe in the Cayo, in 2005 and 2006 there was a series of robberies by armed bandits. Alleged ringleaders of the gang were caught in Guatemala and turned over to Belizean authorities, and no further incidents have occurred since mid-2006. At this writing, the U.S. Embassy had issued a warning about highway banditry on unpaved roads near the Guatemala border, and trips to Caracol may be made only in convoys accompanied by Belize Defence Forces soldiers. Ask locally about any recent incidents before starting road trips to remote areas.

Restaurants & Cuisine

San Ignacio is the culinary center of the Cayo, with close to 20 restaurants. Most are small spots, with only a few tables. Restaurants offer Indian, French, German, and even Sri Lankan, fare as well as burritos and beans. Prices, designed to appeal to the budget and midlevel travelers who stay in town, rarely rise above the moderate level. At the jungle lodges outside San Ignacio, prices are much higher. Some lodges charge BZ$65 or $70, or more, for a mediocre dinner, leaving some guests to wonder if the expense is justified.

About the Hotels

In the Cayo you have two very different choices in accommodations: jungle lodges and regular hotels. Jungle lodges, regardless of price or amenities, offer a close-to-nature experience, typically next to a river or in a remote mountain setting. Most lodges house their guests in thatch cabañas, patterned after traditional Mayan houses. At the top end, lodges such as Blancaneaux and Chaa Creek deliver a truly deluxe experience, with designer toiletries, thick, imported mattresses, and decor that wouldn't be out of place in Architectural Digest. At the other end, some budget lodges have outdoor bathrooms and thin foam mattresses. In between are a number of midlevel lodges providing an off-the-beaten-path experience at moderate prices.

Whereas the district's lodges are back-a-bush (a Belizean expression for "out in the jungle"), the Cayo's hotels are in towns or along the Western Highway. The area's least expensive hotels are clustered in San Ignacio, one of the backpacker centers of Belize. Hotels in and around Belmopan are a little more expensive, since they cater to people in the capital on government business. Whether hotel or jungle lodge, most properties in the Cayo are small, typically run by the owner.

Generally, inexpensive hotels and lodges maintain the same rate year-round, though some may discount a little in the off-season (generally mid-April to early December). More expensive places have off-season rates 30% to 40% less than high season.

Top Reasons to Go

National Parks & Reserves

About 60% of the Cayo District is national parks and reserves, which is good news if you like hiking, birding, wildlife spotting, canoeing, or other outdoor activities. The Mountain Pine Ridge, at more than 127,000 acres, is the largest forest reserve in Belize. Other protected areas include the Elijio Panti National Park, St. Herman's Blue Hole National Park, and Guanacaste National Park.

Caves

Although there are caves in Toledo and elsewhere in Belize, the Cayo has the biggest and most exciting ones. Actun Tunichil Muknal is the top caving experience in Belize; explore huge underground chambers on foot or float on subterranean rivers through the underworld of the ancient Maya.

Mayan Sites

The Cayo is home to the largest and most important Mayan site in Belize; Caracol has more than 35,000 buildings over 30 square mi (78 square km). It also has the most easily accessible Mayan sites in the country, Cahal Pech and Xunantunich, along with dozens of smaller ones.

Jungle Lodges

With more than 30 jungle lodges, the Cayo has far more than all the other districts of Belize combined. There's a lodge for every budget, from bare-bones cabins along the Mopan River to ultradeluxe villas on the Macal River and in the Mountain Pine Ridge.

Mountains

The Cayo's 2,000-3,000 foot mountains provide a welcome respite from the heat and humidity of lowland Belize. Though lacking the craggy heights of the volcanic mountains of Guatemala or Costa Rica, the Mountain Pine Ridge and the north end of the Maya Mountain range make up for it with a dramatic lineup of natural wonders—waterfalls, caves, rivers, and a new lake created by dams on the Macal.

Great Itineraries

If You Have 3 Days in the Cayo

Upon arrival at the international airport, immediately head to the Cayo by rental car, bus, or shuttle van. If you have time, stop en route at the Belize Zoo. Stay at one of the jungle lodges around San Ignacio, if it's in your budget. On your first full day in the Cayo, explore the area around San Ignacio, visiting the Xunantunich Mayan ruins, the Belize Botanic Gardens on the grounds of duPlooy's Lodge, and Green Hills Butterfly Farm. Assuming you have the energy, walk the Rainforest Medicine Trail and spend a few minutes at the Natural History Center, both at the Lodge at Chaa Creek. On the second day, if you're not planning to move on to Tikal in Guatemala after your stay in the Cayo, at least take a day tour there. Guided tours from San Ignacio usually include van transportation to the Tikal park, a local guide at the site, and lunch. Alternatively, if you're heading to Tikal later, take a day trip to Caracol in the Mountain Pine Ridge. Bring a picnic lunch and make stops at Río On pools, the Río Frio cave, and a waterfall, such as Five Sisters. On your final day, take a full-day guided tour of Actun Tunichil Muknal. Have dinner at a restaurant in San Ignacio.

If You Have 5 Days in the Cayo

Rent a car at the international airport and drive to a jungle lodge near Belmopan. If you have time, stop en route at the Belize Zoo and do a quick driving tour of the capital. On your first full day, go cave tubing and take a zip-line canopy tour at Jaguar Paw Lodge. Alternatively, for a more strenuous day, take a trip with Caves Branch Adventure Camp, or do their cave-tubing trip. End your day with dinner at your lodge and a night wildlife-spotting tour. On your second day, drive down the Hummingbird Highway and take a dip in the inland Blue Hole. Also, visit St. Herman's Cave or go horseback riding at Banana Bank Lodge. On the third day, move on to a jungle lodge near San Ignacio or in the Mountain Pine Ridge and follow the three day itinerary.