The sound of the surf is the only thing you'll hear at these smart, white with blue trim, red-roofed beachfront air-conditioned cabins. Turneffe Flats is on the northeastern side of the Turneffe Atoll on a private point with white-sand beach and a wadeable bonefish flat. The rooms, fitted with elegant hardwoods, are a far cry from the bare-bones fishing camp that occupied this site in the early '80s. More recently two three-bedroom villas have been added on the 25-acre grounds, along with an infinity swimming pool. The social heart of the resort is a lodge with bar, dining room (meals are served family style) and two levesl of decks with sea views. You can dive at Turneffe Flats—48- and 29-foot dive boats are on standby and the reef is only 200 yards from shore—but the ubiquitous fishing-pole racks suggest that bonefish, permit, and tarpon are still the dominant lure. For these fish you usually go out on 16-foot flats skiffs, with two anglers and a guide per boat. You pay a pretty penny to indulge your passion, however—a weekly fishing package for two in-season is around BZ$17,000 including meals, taxes, and guided fishing, but not your bar tab or tips. Dive packages are somewhat less.