Orientation & Planning

Orientation & Planning

Orientation

The Northern Highway, a paved two-lane road, is the transportation spine of the region, running about 95 mi (156 km) from Belize City to the Mexican border at Chetumal, passing the two main towns in northern Belize, Orange Walk and Corozal. Mile marker signs begin in Belize City at the traffic circle where Princess Margaret Drive, Freetown Road, and Central American Boulevard meet, and increase going north. However, the markers are not well maintained and many are missing.

In 2005 a bypass around Orange Walk Town opened, providing a way to avoid the congested downtown. Buses between Belize City and Corozal run frequently—roughly hourly during daylight hours—in both directions. About one-half of the buses continue on to Chetumal, Mexico.

Branching off the Northern Highway are a number of tertiary roads, mostly unpaved, including the road to Crooked Tree Wildlife Sanctuary; the Old Northern Highway that leads to the Altun Ha ruins and Maruba Spa; a road to Shipyard, a Mennonite settlement, which also connects with roads to the Lamanai ruins and to the La Milpa ruins and Gallon Jug; the San Estevan Road that is a route to Progresso, Copper Bank, and the Cerros Maya ruins, or, via a different branch, to Sarteneja. Another route to Sarteneja runs from Corozal Town and requires crossing the New River twice on hand-pulled auto ferries.

Planning

When to Go

Corozal Town and the rest of northern Belize get about the same amount of rain as Atlanta, Georgia, so the "rainy season"—generally June to November—here is not to be feared. It's hot and humid for much of the year, except in waterfront areas where prevailing breezes mitigate the heat. December to April is usually the most pleasant time, with weather similar to that of south Florida. In winter, cold fronts from the north occasionally bring rain and chilly weather, and when the temperature drops to the low 60s, locals sleep under extra blankets.

Restaurants & Cuisine

With the exception of dining rooms at upscale jungle lodges, where four-course dinners can run BZ$70 or more, restaurants are almost invariably small, inexpensive, family-run places, serving simple meals such as stew chicken with rice and beans. Here, you'll rarely pay more than BZ$20 for dinner, and frequently much less. If there's a predominant culinary influence, it's from Mexico, and many restaurants serve tacos, tamales, garnaches (small, fried corn tortillas with beans, cabbage, and cheese piled on them), and soups such as escabeche (onion soup with chicken). A few places, mostly in Corozal Town, cater to tourists and expats, with burgers and steaks.

About the Hotels

As with restaurants, most hotels in northern Belize are small, family-run spots. In Corozal and Orange Walk towns, hotels are modest affairs with room rates generally under BZ$150 for a double, a fraction of the cost of hotels in San Pedro or other more popular parts of Belize. Generally, the hotels are clean, well maintained, and offer a homey atmosphere. They have private baths and plenty of hot and cold water, and many also have air-conditioning. Hotels and lodges in Crooked Tree, Sarteneja, Copper Bank, and Progresso are also small and inexpensive; few have air-conditioning. The jungle lodges near Lamanai, Gallon Jug, and Altun Ha, however, are a different story. Several of these, including Chan Chich Lodge, Maruba Jungle Lodge and Spa, and Lamanai Outpost Lodge, are upscale accommodations, with gorgeous settings in the jungle or on a lagoon and prices to match, typically BZ$500 or more for a double in-season; meals and tours are extra.

Great Itineraries

If You Have 3 to 5 Days in Northern Belize

If starting in Belize City, rent a car and drive to Crooked Tree Wildlife Sanctuary, which has great birding and offers the chance to see the jabiru stork, the largest flying bird in the Americas. Spend a few hours here, canoeing on the lagoon and hiking trails near Crooked Tree Village. If you have an interest in birding, you'll want to overnight here at one of the simple lagoon-side lodges, such as Bird's Eye View. Otherwise, drive on to Maruba, an upscale jungle lodge and spa. The drive from Crooked Tree takes about 45 minutes. While you're at Maruba, visit the Altun Ha Mayan site, which you can see in a couple of hours. On the second day, drive to Corozal Town, about 1½ hours from Maruba or Crooked Tree. Base here in Corozal Town for two days, at one of the small hotels on Corozal Bay, making day trips by boat to Lamanai and Cerros ruins (or you can drive). If you have additional days in the north, you can add a visit to Sarteneja or cross the border into Chetumal, Mexico. Alternatively, after the first night in Crooked Tree or at Maruba, drive to the Lamanai Mayan site, and spend the night there at one of the lodges on the New River Lagoon, or, for a different experience, proceed to Blue Creek Village, a Mennonite area, and spend the night at Hillside B&B. Then, continue on through Programme for Belize lands to Chan Chich Lodge, and spend the rest of your time in northern Belize at this classic jungle lodge. If money isn't much of an object and you want one of the best jungle lodge experiences in Central America, then ditch the car and fly from Belize City to Chan Chich, where you can spend all your time looking for jaguars and listening to the howler monkeys.

If You Have 1 Day in Northern Belize

With only one day, head to Lamanai, which with Caracol in the Cayo District, is the most interesting of Belize's Mayan sites. Although you can drive, the most enjoyable way to get to Lamanai is by a 1½-hour boat trip, up the New River. Tour boats (BZ$80 per person) leave around 9 AM from the Tower Hill bridge over the New River just south of Orange Walk Town. If you're staying overnight at Lamanai, your hotel can arrange boat transportation.