Playa los Muertos is PV's original happenin' downtown beach. Facing Vallarta's South Side (south of the Río Cuale), this flat beach runs about 1 1/2 km (1 mi) south to a rocky point called El Púlpito. Joggers cruise the cement boardwalk (interrupted by sandy areas) early morning and after sunset; vendors stalk the beach nonstop, hawking kites, jewelry, and sarapes as well as hair-braiding and alfresco massage. Their parade can range from entertaining (good bargainers can get excellent deals) to downright maddening. Restaurant-bars run the length of the beach; the bright blue umbrellas near the south end of the beach belong to the Blue Chairs resort, the hub of PV's effervescent gay scene.