Horseback Riding in Puerto Vallarta

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Horseback Riding

Most of the horse riding outfits are based on family ranches in the foothill towns of the Sierra like Las Palmas. Horses are permitted on the beach in smaller towns like Sayulita and San Francisco, but not in Vallarta proper, so expect to ride into the hills for sunset-viewing there.

Logistics

Outfitters pick you up either from the hotel or strategic locations north and south of town and return you to your hotel or to the pickup point. Short rides depart morning and afternoon, while longer rides are generally in the morning only, at least during winter hours of early sunset.

Ask at the beachfront restaurants of tiny towns like Yelapa, Quimixto, and Las Animas, south of PV, to hook up with horses for treks into the jungle. Horses are generally well cared for, and some are exceptionally fit and frolicky.

Outfitters

Hacienda de Doña Engracia (Carretera a las Palmas, Km 10, La Desembocada. 322/224-0410. www.haciendadonaengracia.com) has, among other activities, a three-hour horseback excursion ($56 per person). After the river has receded at the end of the wet season (this dry period usually lasts from late November through June), you ride one hour to a series of three hot springs, where you spend an hour before heading back, crossing a river mid-trip. In rainy season, the tour through jungly hills is impressive but, because you often can't cross the swollen streams, it doesn't go to the hot springs. Some of the large stable of horses are of Arabian stock. At the hacienda, you can fish in the small artificial lake, do a tequila tasting, go mountain biking, or lunch at the restaurant. Most people arrive as part of a cruise-ship excursion or dune buggy tour with Wild Vallarta or other adventure companies, but you can drive on your own as well.

Rancho Charro (322/224-0114. www.ranchoelcharro.com) provides transportation to and from your hotel for rides to rivers and waterfalls. Choices include three-hour ($56), five-hour ($69), and all-day rides ($100), and several multiday camping-riding combos.

The friendly folks at family-owned Rancho Manolo (Highway 200, Km 12, at Mismaloya bridge, Mismaloya. 322/228-0018 day; 322/222-3694 evening) take you into the mountains they know so well. The usual tour is to El Edén, the restaurant-and-river property where the movie Predator was filmed. The three-hour trip (45 minutes each way, with 1 1/2 hours for a meal or for splashing in the river) costs just $33.

The horses of Rancho Ojo de Agua (Cerrada de Cardenal 227, Fracc. Aralias, Puerto Vallarta. 322/224-0607) are part Mexican quarter horse and part thoroughbred; according to proud owner Mari González, the stock comes from the Mexican cavalry. The family-owned business conducts sunset and half-day horseback rides (three to five hours, $58 and $71), the latter including lunch and time for a swim in a mountain stream. Also available is a full-day excursion (seven hours, most of which on the horse) into the Sierra Madre ($95) or an overnight ($250), which includes four meals and either tent or cabin camping.

Manuel, of Rancho Manuel (Calle 33, Gringo Hill, Sayulita. 322/132-7683), rents horses for riding on the beach or in the hills behind Sayulita. You can find him on the beach at San Pancho or Sayulita, or give him a call ahead to arrange. Though the trail rides at Club de Polo Costa Careyes (Km 53.5, Carretera 200, Carretera a Barra de Navidad, El Careyes. 315/351-0320. www.mexicopolo.com) are expensive at $80 for 45 minutes to an hour, you know you're getting an exceptional mount. Trips leave in early morning or around sunset. Tours are mid-November through mid-April only.

PickUp Polo

Rent a pony and join a game of polo at the Club de Polo Costa Careyes (Km 53.5 Carretera 200, Carretera a Barra de Navidad, El Careyes. 315/351-0320. www.mexicopolo.com). The cost is $80 per game per player. Spectators are welcome, too, at no charge, to watch the various tournaments (mid-April-November). Ask about packages including accommodations, clinics (mid-February through mid-March only), and lessons.