Baja's chefs rely on the vegetables and fruits grown in the region's fertile valleys. Beef, pork, and quail are all good here. So is seafood, which is often fried or grilled. Some say that fish tacos (tacos de pescado) originated in Ensenada, others insist it was San Felipe. No matter. They now appear on menus everywhere, and are made with hunks of battered and fried fish stuffed in a fresh corn tortilla and topped with such fixings as a mayonnaise-based sauce, cilantro, onions, and shredded cabbage. Also try ceviche, which is fresh fish marinated in a mixture of lime, onions, and cilantro.