Baja's Gray Whales

Baja's Gray Whales

A small boat glides through clear waters off Baja, its passengers bundled in jackets and scarves. Suddenly someone spots a dark shape slicing through the water like a submarine. Everyone sits still and silent as the creature moves closer, emitting gusts of air. And then, there she is: a 20-ton mama right by the boat. Cheering and clapping, the enraptured passengers click photos, film videos, and generally perform as if they would around any darling new baby.

Every December through March, gray whales swim 8,000 km (5,000 mi) south from Alaska's Bering Strait to the tip of the Baja Peninsula. Up to 6,000 whales swim past and stop close to the shore at several spots to give birth to their calves. These newborns weigh about half a ton and consume nearly 50 gallons of milk a day.

The best places for close encounters are Bahía Magdalena (aka Mag Bay), which is about 266 km (165 mi) northwest of La Paz and 94 km (58 mi) southwest of Loreto, and Laguna San Ignacio, which is about 70 km (43 mi) southwest of San Ignacio. Less accessible is Parque Natural de la Ballena Gris (Gray Whale Natural Park) at Scammon's Lagoon near Guerrero Negro, about 227 km (141 mi) northwest of San Ignacio at the border with Baja Norte. There are no flights into this remote Pacific coast area, which is usually accessed by car or bus from the Tijuana border 720 km (446 mi) north. Several U.S. and Mexican companies offer multiday tours to the various whale-watching areas that include overnight stays in small hotels or camps.

Whale-watching boats -- most of them pangas (small skiffs) -- must get permission from the Mexican government to enter the whale-watching areas. The experience itself entails a trip into the lagoons in a small boat. It's usually chilly, and passengers are bundled up. But for a better view, and an easier stay in this rugged country, travel with an outfitter who will arrange your transportation, accommodations, and time on the water. Bring along a telephoto lens, lots of film, and binoculars.