Snorkeling & Scuba Diving in Cancún and Isla Mujeres

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Snorkeling & Scuba Diving

The snorkeling is best at Punta Nizuc, Punta Cancún, and Playa Tortugas, although you should be careful of the strong currents at Tortugas. You can rent gear for about $10 per day from many of the scuba-diving places as well as at many hotels.

Scuba diving is popular in Cancún, though it's not as spectacular as in Cozumel. Look for a scuba company that will give you lots of personal attention: smaller companies are often better at this than larger ones. Regardless, ask to meet the dive master, and check the equipment and certifications thoroughly. A few words of caution about one-hour courses that many resorts offer for free: such courses do not prepare you to dive in the open ocean -- only in shallow water where you can easily surface without danger. If you've caught the scuba bug and want to take deep or boat dives, prepare yourself properly by investing in a full certification course.

Marina Barracuda (Blvd. Kukulcán, Km 14, Zona Hotelera. 998/885-3444) has a two-hour Wave Runner jungle tour through the mangroves, which ends with snorkeling at the Punta Nizuc coral reef. The fee (which starts at $55) includes snorkeling equipment, life jackets, and refreshments.

Aqua Fun (Blvd. Kukulcán, Km 16.5, Zona Hotelera. 998/885-2930) offers a two-hour tour of the mangroves that costs $55 per person and includes snorkeling at the Punta Nizuc reef.

AquaWorld (Blvd. Kukulcán, Km 15.2, Zona Hotelera. 998/848-8300. www.aquaworld.com.mx) has a day-trip snorkeling excursion to Isla Mujeres that costs $63 per person. This operation also offers diving; a one-tank dive costs $60 and two-tank dives start at $65. Dive explorations of boat wrecks cost $72, cenote expeditions cost $120.

Mundo Marino (Blvd. Kukulcán, Km 5.5, Zona Hotelera. 998/849-7257 or 998/849-7258) has a 2 1/2-hour snorkeling excursion that costs $28 per person. They also offer a single-tank dive ($50), two-tank dive ($70), night dive ($90), and diving instruction course ($90).

Marina Punta del Este (Blvd. Kukulcán, Km 10.3, Zona Hotelera. 998/883-1210) is right in front of the Hyatt Cancún Caribe. They have dives that last from 3 1/2 to 4 hours; $72 if you are certified and $88 for a lesson. Scuba Cancún (Blvd. Kukulcán, Km 5, Zona Hotelera. 998/849-7508) specializes in diving trips and offers NAUI, CMAS, and PADI instruction. It's operated by Tomás Hurtado, who has more than 35 years of experience. A two-tank dive starts at $68. Solo Buceo (Blvd. Kukulcán, Km 9.5, Zona Hotelera. 998/883-3979. www.solobuceo.com) charges $55 for one-tank dives, $70 for two-tank dives, and $88 for twilight diving. They also have NAUI, FMAS, CMAS, and PADI instruction (lesson prices range from $120 to $330). The outfit also offers a full-day excursion to Cozumel, as well as dive explorations of various cenotes near Akumal. These extended trips are available from $145.

On Isla Mujeres

Diving Safety

Although diving is extremely safe on Isla, accidents can still happen. You may want to consider buying dive-accident insurance from the Divers Alert Network (DAN) (The Peter B. Bennett Center, 6 W. Colony Pl., Durham, NC, 27705-5588. 800/446-2671. www.diversalertnetwork.org/insurance). DAN insurance covers dive accidents and injuries. Their emergency hotline can help you find the best local doctors, hyperbaric chambers, and medical services to assist you. They can also arrange for airlifts.

The Whole Package

Sea Passion, offers one-of-a-kind tours, that include sailing on their 75-foot catamaran from Cancún to Isla Mujeres, snorkeling, shopping, and lunch at a private beach club. This all-day tour includes food and drink and costs $79 per person. Other packages are also available on their Web site: www.seapassion.net. 998/877-0798 or 984/803-0399. 998/877-0798 or 984/803-0399.

Dive Sites

Most area dive spots are also described in detail in Dive Mexico magazine, which is available in many local shops. The coral reefs at El Garrafón National Park have suffered tremendously because of human negligence, boats dropping their anchors (now an outlawed practice), and the effects of hurricanes. Some good snorkeling can be had near Playa Norte on the north end.

Isla is a good place for learning to dive, since the snorkeling is close to shore. Offshore, there are excellent diving and snorkeling at Xlaches (pronounced ees-lah-chayss) reef, due north on the way to Isla Contoy. One of Contoy's most alluring dives is the Cave of the Sleeping Sharks, east of the northern tip. The cave was discovered by an island fisherman, Carlos Gracía Castilla, and extensively explored by Ramón Bravo, a local diver, cinematographer, and Mexico's foremost expert on sharks. The cave is a fascinating 150-foot dive for experienced divers only.

At 30 feet to 40 feet deep and 3,300 feet off the southwestern coast, the coral reef known as Los Manchones is a good dive site. During the summer of 1994 an ecology group hoping to divert divers and snorkelers from El Garrafón commissioned the creation of a 1-ton, 9¾-foot bronze cross, which was sunk here. Named the Cruz de la Bahía (Cross of the Bay), it's a tribute to everyone who has died at sea. Another option is the Barco L-55 and C-58 dive, which takes in sunken World War II boats just 20 minutes off the coast of Isla.

Dive Shops

You can find out more about the various dive shops on Isla by visiting the island's new dive Web site: www.isladiveguide.com. Most of the shops offer a variety of dive packages with rates variable on the time of day, the reef visited, and the number of tanks. The PADI-affiliated Coral Scuba Dive Center (Av. Matamoros 13A. 998/877-0763. www.coralscubadivecenter.com) has a variety of dive packages. Fees start at $29 for one-tank dives and go up to $59 for two-tank adventure and shipwreck dives. Snorkeling trips tare also available.

Mundaca Divers (Av. Francisco Madero 10. 998/877-0607. www.mundacadivers.com) has a good reputation with professional divers and employs a PADI instructor. Half-day diving courses for beginners cost $60, whereas dives to the Cave of Sleeping Sharks or various shipwrecks are $60 to $80. Special four-reef dive packages start at $75.

Sea Hawk Divers (Av. Arq. Carlos Lazo. 998/877-0296) runs reef dives from $45 (for one tank) to $60 (for two tanks). Special excursions to the more exotic shipwrecks cost between $75 to $95. The PADI courses taught here are highly regarded. For nondivers there are snorkel trips.

Cruise Divers (Avs. Rueda Medina and Matamoros. 998/877-1190) offers two-tank dives starting at $55 and a dive resort course (a quickie learn-to-scuba course that doesn't allow you to dive in the open sea) for $80. The dive resort course is a good introduction course for beginners and offers courses for advanced divers; they also organize nighttime dives.