Just over the English border, this great little pub in the miniscule village of Craswall has satisfyingly old-world decor. The classic British cooking is excellent, and the lamb is so local there's a reasonable chance that the farmer's in the bar with you. You might find roast wild boar with juniper berries and chestnut on the daily menu, or perhaps roast lamb with morel sauce. There's some Italian influence here and there, too, for example in desserts such as Amoretti spumoni or a pudding (steamed cake) made with panettone. The pub is a 25-minute drive southeast of Hay-on-Wye; it's on an unnamed local road in the middle of Craswall, but the village is so small you literally can't miss it.
Craswall, HR2 0PN, England