On the southernmost tip of the Gallipoli Peninsula, the cape has a massive, four-pillared memorial to Turkey's World War I dead. No one knows how many fell in battle; estimates vary from 60,000 to 250,000. If you take the ferry from Gallipoli to Çanakkale, look for the memorials to the campaign carved into the cliffs. The large one at Kilitbahır reads: "Stop, O passerby. This earth you tread unawares is where an age was lost. Bow and listen, for this quiet place is where
the heart of a nation throbs."