The Sea of Marmara and the North Aegean Restaurants

Aegean cuisine is in many ways different from Turkish food elsewhere. The shared Turkish and Greek culture of the region's past, the climate and soil suitable for growing a wide range of vegetables, including tasty local greens and herbs, and the prevalence of olive trees and olive oil production have helped the region develop a much more varied way of eating that is healthier than in other Turkish regions. Olive oil replaces butter, and fish, rather than meat, is the star on most menus. The class of dishes generally called zeytinya?l? (literally "with olive oil") mostly comes from this region; these are usually comprised of tomatoes, onions, and other vegetables cooked in olive oil and served cold. Vegetarians will be in heaven.

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  • 1. Lal Girit Mutfağı

    $$$$

    There’s no grilled fish on the menu at this cozy, family-run restaurant—indeed, there’s no menu, and most of the time only one entrée is available: lamb cooked with thyme. But chef and owner Emine Elik serves some of Cunda's most delicious and inventive mezes, with options changing daily but always featuring selections for both vegetarians and seafood eaters. Seating is in a small dining room adjacent to the open kitchen or on the sidewalk and patio in warm weather.

    Ayvalık Cad. 20, Cunda, Balikesir, 10400, Turkey
    266-327–2834

    Known For

    • Girit lokumu (thick slices of eggplant topped with charred, caramelized walnuts)
    • Friendly and engaging owner
    • Comfortable, homey atmosphere

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: No lunch July and Aug., Reservations essential
  • 2. Muradiye Osmanlı Mutfağı

    $$$$

    Across from the Muradiye Tombs, this soup kitchen built by Sultan Murat II in the 15th century to help feed the poor now houses a restaurant serving Ottoman and Turkish cuisine in wonderfully atmospheric surroundings. Hünkar beğendi (tender lamb on a bed of grilled-eggplant puree) literally means "the Sultan liked it," and it's impossible not to. The place is also known for its meat dishes as well as its Ottoman desserts. The terrace is pleasant, but dine indoors and you'll feel like you're eating in the sultan's quarters. No alcohol is served.

    2. Murat Cad. 36, Bursa, Bursa, 16050, Turkey
    224-224–6439

    Known For

    • Quiet and intimate feel
    • Elegant decor
    • Köfte

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: No lunch during Ramadan, Reservations essential
  • 3. Yalova Restaurant

    $$$$

    At this decades-old establishment, take in views across the Dardanelles from the rooftop terrace as you enjoy such seafood mezes as grilled octopus in vinegar or sardines wrapped in vine leaves. Non-seafood mezes like fried eggplant with cheese are equally tasty. Fish prices are per kilogram and are not listed on the menu, so be sure to ask before ordering. The same goes for dishes that might show up on the table without you having asked for them. Service can be hit or miss.

    Gümrük Sok. 7, Çanakkale, Çanakkale, 17000, Turkey
    286-217–1045

    Known For

    • Views of the water
    • Best seafood mezes in Çanakkale
    • Baby calamari and akuvadis (a type of local mussel)

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Reservations essential
  • 4. Akropol

    $$$

    The best thing about this restaurant is its setting in a 150-year-old Greek building that's surrounded by estate-like grounds in a tranquil part of town. The food is nothing spectacular, but the large outdoor terrace area has views of the Acropolis and Red Basilica, making it a romantic spot for an evening meal. Good, if unsurprising, mezes, kebabs (only meat, no chicken), and steaks are on the menu, it's licensed to serve alcohol, and prices are more reasonable than the somewhat formal interior and serious service may imply.

    İttihati Terraki Cad. 47, Bergama, Izmir, 35700, Turkey
    232-632–7722

    Known For

    • Amazing views of the city
    • Perfect spot for a drink
    • Lamb dishes
  • 5. Arap Şükrü Çetin

    $$$$

    The place to be on a busy Bursa weekend evening, this irrepressible meyhane is a local institution, serving a delectable selection of fish fresh from the open-air market on the corner. In the early 1930s, a veteran of the War of Independence nicknamed "Arab" Şükrü opened a fish restaurant here on Sakarya Caddesi, a narrow side street just south of Altıparmak Caddesi; now the whole area carries his name, and his descendants run both this venue and a competing establishment just opposite. The entire street is a lively and popular dining spot, with affable musicians wandering around the many tables.

    Sakarya Cad. 6, Bursa, Bursa, 16050, Turkey
    224-221–1453

    Known For

    • Live, table-side Turkish classical music
    • Friendly and animated service
    • Perfect spot for rakı-balık

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: No lunch. Closed during Ramadan, Reservations essential
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  • 6. Arzu Pide and Çorba Salonu

    $

    In the heart of town, Arzu has inexpensive, simple, and satisfying Turkish fare that is popular with locals, especially at lunchtime. The pide, lahmacun, and lentil soup are particularly tasty, and the staff is friendly. The restaurant's interior is a bit cramped, but there are more tables on the sidewalk outside—perfect for watching the goings-on in town.

    İstiklal Meydanı 35, Bergama, Izmir, 35700, Turkey
    232-631–1187

    Known For

    • Mercimek çorba (lentil soup)
    • Simple decor
    • Kuşbaşılı-peynirli pide (with minced meat, finely chopped vegetables, and cheese)
  • 7. Assos Köyüm Restaurant

    $$

    There's no menu at this friendly, family-run spot in Behramkale's tiny main square: Just pick from the selection of mezes on display (don't miss the crunchy, garlicky greens called deniz börülcesi), and let one of the waiters tell you which meat dishes are available that day. The covered terrace looks over the village and down to the sea—it's a wonderful spot to watch the sun set—while a few seats out front let you watch the comings and goings on the square. Alcohol is served.

    Behramkale village square, by çay bahçesi, Behramkale, Çanakkale, 17860, Turkey
    286-721–7424

    Known For

    • Saç kavurma (a sizzling plate of diced lamb and onions)
    • Attentive staff
    • Excellent views
  • 8. Bay Nihat

    $$$$

    The most popular and probably the most expensive of the waterfront restaurants on Cunda serves a selection of mezes and prepared seafood that is a feast for the eyes as well as the stomach. Many options are original creations based on Greek and Turkish cuisine—squid in saffron sauce, sole in yogurt, akuvadis in whiskey sauce, and cured fish pastırma are among the unusual specialties. There's no menu, so ask to see the mezes and fish before ordering, and inquire about prices—be prepared to pay a lot.

    Sahil Boyu 21, Cunda, Balikesir, 10405, Turkey
    266-327–1777

    Known For

    • Huge selection of mezes
    • Seating right on the water
    • Exceptional presentation

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Reservations essential
  • 9. Bergama Sofrası

    $$

    Alongside a 16th-century hammam in downtown Bergama, this casual room serves around 20 dishes—stews, casseroles, grilled meats, and soups (fewer options are available at dinnertime). Try the kadın budu köfte (ground meat mixed with rice and parsley and lightly fried in egg batter) and the kemalpaşa, a traditional sweet served with kaymak (clotted cream) and tahini, for dessert. No alcohol is served. Restrooms are outside.

    Bankalar Cad. 44, Bergama, Izmir, 35700, Turkey
    232-631–5131

    Known For

    • çığırtma, a local dish similar to moussaka
    • Excellent value
    • Vegetarian options
  • 10. Fırat Lokantası

    $$

    In the heart of Ayvalık, just north of Saatli Cami, this eatery serves up filling lunches to hardworking street traders; it's tiny but almost always full, so you may have to share one of the dozen or so tables. The Turkish home cooking—rice, beans, eggplant with minced meat, and lamb stew—is delicious, making this the perfect place for lunch when wandering the historic part of the town. A red 1970s rotary telephone adds some character.

    Cumhuriyet Cad. 25/A, Ayvalik, Balikesir, 10400, Turkey
    266-312–1380

    Known For

    • Crowds of locals
    • Generous portions
    • Excellent value

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Sun. No dinner
  • 11. Gülen Pide

    $$

    Cheery and bright, this casual, two-floor eatery near the ferry dock serves delicious pide (Turkish pizza), topped with minced meat, sausage, cheese, or any combination of them. There's also a wide variety of kebabs, döner, and other grilled meats, as well as the thin flatbread lahmacun, topped with minced meat, and a couple of traditional desserts.

    Cumhuriyet Meydanı 27/A, Çanakkale, Çanakkale, 17100, Turkey
    286-212–8800

    Known For

    • Massive portions
    • Great value
    • Fındık lahmacun (smaller, saucer-sized pieces of lahmacun)
  • 12. Kale Restaurant

    $$

    A few minutes' walk from the Acropolis, this casual eatery with stone tables and colorful flowerpots is a welcome stop, especially on a hot day, on the way back from seeing the ruins. The ayran (a salty yogurt drink) is thirst quenching and a great restorative. Try the mantı (Turkish ravioli in garlicky yogurt sauce), the tavuk şiş (chicken kebab), or the gözleme, thin Turkish pastry filled with minced meat, mashed potato, or cheese and cooked on a flat griddle.

    Behramkale, Çanakkale, 17860, Turkey
    543-317–4969

    Known For

    • Good value
    • Relaxed decor
    • Excellent Turkish coffee

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed weekdays Nov.–Feb.
  • 13. Kebapçı İskender (Oğlu Cevat)

    $$$$

    Eager patrons line up outside this little white-and-blue house near the bazaar to enjoy heaping servings of meat, dished up by a grandson of Mehmet İskenderoğlu, who invented the İskender kebap back in 1867 (he's pictured on the wall, opposite Atatürk). The kebab is tender, the portions filling, and the photograph-lined dining rooms quaint. The kitchen closes by 6:30 during the week and 8 on weekends, so go early.

    Atatürk Cad. 60, at Orhan Sok., Bursa, Bursa, 16010, Turkey
    224-221–1076-general management

    Known For

    • Crowds of locals
    • Best İskender kebab in Turkey
    • Hefty portions
  • 14. Kenan Çorba & Izgara

    $

    This popular spot just opposite the Aya Sofya serves soups, beans with sliced Turkish pastrami and rice, and typical home-style dishes. The işkembe (tripe soup) is probably best only for those who are into experimenting—you'll either hate it or love it. The atmosphere is a notch above most eateries of this type. The place opens early, at 5 am, but don't plan on a late dinner—it closes at 8 pm.

    Atatürk Cad. 93/B, Iznik, Bursa, 16860, Turkey
    224-757–0235

    Known For

    • Home-style meals
    • Central location
    • Reasonable prices
  • 15. Köfteci Yusuf

    $$

    Turks love their köfte (meatballs), and almost every city in the country makes a claim to fame based on its own way of preparing them, including İznik. Locals fill the large, canteen-type tables of this casual bilevel eatery with both indoor and deck seating at almost all times of the day to enjoy İznik köfte, served with tomatoes, peppers, onions, and a mildly spicy red pepper sauce. Other grilled meats are also available, with yogurt and salads as optional sides. This is not a place for vegetarians.

    Atatürk Cad. 73, Iznik, Bursa, 16860, Turkey
    224-757–3597

    Known For

    • Large portions
    • Künefe (a sweet, cheese-filled pastry soaked in syrup)
    • Excellent service
  • 16. Liman Balık Restaurant

    $$

    Newer and shinier options on the peninsula have failed to tempt the loyal clientele away from this decades-old favorite, where large windows and a small covered patio draped in vines overlook a small park next to the sea. The fare includes a wide variety of mezes, along with fish and grilled meat dishes; all are fresh and tasty. The casserole of tiny shrimp is especially good. Reservations are essential during war anniversaries.

    İstiklal Cad. 67, Eceabat, Çanakkale, 17900, Turkey
    286-814–2755

    Known For

    • Beautiful outdoor terrace with a view
    • Best value in Eceabat
    • Extensive wine list
  • 17. Ömür Köftecisi

    $$$

    The location, in the covered market by Ulu Cami, is charming, and köfte (meatballs) is the thing to order, served with grilled peppers and tomatoes. Among the salad options, piyaz (bean salad with vinegar) accompanies köfte best. The soups are delicious, and there are also grilled meat options. The restaurant has the same architectural features as the hans, with brick and stone walls and two domes in the ceilings painted in floral patterns. The place closes at 8 pm.

    Ulu Cami Cad. 7, Bursa, Bursa, 16010, Turkey
    224-221–4524

    Known For

    • Excellent prices
    • Quality and friendly service
    • Various köfte dishes, including one filled with cheese

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed during Ramadan
  • 18. Sardunya Ev Yemekleri

    $$

    In a century-old former house on Fetvane Sokak, Sardunya serves home-style Turkish cooking at very reasonable prices. There’s no menu; you simply choose several items from the counter displaying that day’s meat and vegetable dishes, which might include meatballs with potatoes, eggplant in a garlicky yogurt sauce, green beans cooked in olive oil, or saffron rice. The interior rooms are pleasantly decorated, and the tiny back courtyard evokes an Aegean island thanks to its overhead vines, white and turquoise wooden tables and chairs, and whitewashed walls with street-scene murals.

    Fetvane Sok. 11, Çanakkale, Çanakkale, 17100, Turkey
    286-213–9899

    Known For

    • Excellent home-style cooking
    • Friendly service
    • Charming garden seating area
  • 19. Şehir Kulübü Restaurant

    $$$$

    With excellent food, views of Cunda Island, and a prime location on the Ayvalık waterfront, this restaurant is worth walking down narrow backstreets to find. The mezes, made with Aegean herbs and greens, include some truly local specialties, such as deniz mücver (fried mussel patties) or sole marinated in a lemony mustard sauce. Both the mezes and fish are on display for easy choosing, and service is attentive.

    Gazinocular Cad., Belediye arkası, Ayvalik, Balikesir, 10400, Turkey
    266-312–1519

    Known For

    • Amazing views
    • First-rate service
    • Wide selection of mezes

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Reservations essential
  • 20. Tik Mustafa's Place

    $$$$

    This local favorite, with seating inside and outside of a traditional Greek house, is packed nearly every night. Despite the crowds, the staff is attentive, kind, and happy to provide recommendations for Tik Mustafa’s rather impressive selection of meze and zeytinyağlı—cold appetizers served in olive oil. While the fish is fresh and can be prepared in a number of ways, saving room for a main course may prove challenging considering the exceptionally delicious appetizers.

    Ayvalik, Balikesir, Turkey
    266-312–3830

    Known For

    • Lively staff
    • Hefty portions
    • Traditional Greek ambience

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Reservations essential

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