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The Sea of Marmara and the North Aegean Restaurants
Aegean cuisine is in many ways different from Turkish food elsewhere. The shared Turkish and Greek culture of the region's past, the climate and soil suitable for growing a wide range of vegetables, including tasty local greens and herbs, and the prevalence of olive trees and olive oil production have helped the region develop a
Aegean cuisine is in many ways different from Turkish food elsewhere. The shared Turkish and Greek culture of the region's past, the climate and soil suitable for growing a wide range of vegetables, including tasty local greens and herbs, and the prevalence of olive tre
Aegean cuisine is in many ways different from Turkish food elsewhere. The shared Turkish and Greek culture of the region
Aegean cuisine is in many ways different from Turkish food elsewhere. The shared Turkish and Greek culture of the region's past, the climate and soil suitable for growing a wide range of vegetables, including tasty local greens and herbs, and the prevalence of olive trees and olive oil production have helped the region develop a much more varied way of eating that is healthier than in other Turkish regions. Olive oil replaces butter, and fish, rather than meat, is the star on most menus. The class of dishes generally called zeytinya?l? (literally "with olive oil") mostly comes from this region; these are usually comprised of tomatoes, onions, and other vegetables cooked in olive oil and served cold. Vegetarians will be in heaven.
There's no menu at this friendly, family-run spot in Behramkale's tiny main square: Just pick from the selection of mezes on display (don't miss the crunchy, garlicky greens called deniz börülcesi), and let one of the waiters tell you which meat dishes are available that day. The covered terrace looks over the village and down to the sea—it's a wonderful spot to watch the sun set—while a few seats out front let you watch the comings and goings on the square. Alcohol is served.
Behramkale village square, by çay bahçesi, Behramkale, Çanakkale, 17860, Turkey
286-721–7424
Known For
Saç kavurma (a sizzling plate of diced lamb and onions)
Alongside a 16th-century hammam in downtown Bergama, this casual room serves around 20 dishes—stews, casseroles, grilled meats, and soups (fewer options are available at dinnertime). Try the kadın budu köfte (ground meat mixed with rice and parsley and lightly fried in egg batter) and the kemalpaşa, a traditional sweet served with kaymak (clotted cream) and tahini, for dessert. No alcohol is served. Restrooms are outside.
In the heart of Ayvalık, just north of Saatli Cami, this eatery serves up filling lunches to hardworking street traders; it's tiny but almost always full, so you may have to share one of the dozen or so tables. The Turkish home cooking—rice, beans, eggplant with minced meat, and lamb stew—is delicious, making this the perfect place for lunch when wandering the historic part of the town. A red 1970s rotary telephone adds some character.
Cumhuriyet Cad. 25/A, Ayvalik, Balikesir, 10400, Turkey
Cheery and bright, this casual, two-floor eatery near the ferry dock serves delicious pide (Turkish pizza), topped with minced meat, sausage, cheese, or any combination of them. There's also a wide variety of kebabs, döner, and other grilled meats, as well as the thin flatbread lahmacun, topped with minced meat, and a couple of traditional desserts.
Cumhuriyet Meydanı 27/A, Çanakkale, Çanakkale, 17100, Turkey
286-212–8800
Known For
Massive portions
Great value
Fındık lahmacun (smaller, saucer-sized pieces of lahmacun)
A few minutes' walk from the Acropolis, this casual eatery with stone tables and colorful flowerpots is a welcome stop, especially on a hot day, on the way back from seeing the ruins. The ayran (a salty yogurt drink) is thirst quenching and a great restorative. Try the mantı (Turkish ravioli in garlicky yogurt sauce), the tavuk şiş (chicken kebab), or the gözleme, thin Turkish pastry filled with minced meat, mashed potato, or cheese and cooked on a flat griddle.
Turks love their köfte (meatballs), and almost every city in the country makes a claim to fame based on its own way of preparing them, including İznik. Locals fill the large, canteen-type tables of this casual bilevel eatery with both indoor and deck seating at almost all times of the day to enjoy İznik köfte, served with tomatoes, peppers, onions, and a mildly spicy red pepper sauce. Other grilled meats are also available, with yogurt and salads as optional sides. This is not a place for vegetarians.
Newer and shinier options on the peninsula have failed to tempt the loyal clientele away from this decades-old favorite, where large windows and a small covered patio draped in vines overlook a small park next to the sea. The fare includes a wide variety of mezes, along with fish and grilled meat dishes; all are fresh and tasty. The casserole of tiny shrimp is especially good. Reservations are essential during war anniversaries.
In a century-old former house on Fetvane Sokak, Sardunya serves home-style Turkish cooking at very reasonable prices. There’s no menu; you simply choose several items from the counter displaying that day’s meat and vegetable dishes, which might include meatballs with potatoes, eggplant in a garlicky yogurt sauce, green beans cooked in olive oil, or saffron rice. The interior rooms are pleasantly decorated, and the tiny back courtyard evokes an Aegean island thanks to its overhead vines, white and turquoise wooden tables and chairs, and whitewashed walls with street-scene murals.
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