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The Sea of Marmara and the North Aegean Restaurants
Aegean cuisine is in many ways different from Turkish food elsewhere. The shared Turkish and Greek culture of the region's past, the climate and soil suitable for growing a wide range of vegetables, including tasty local greens and herbs, and the prevalence of olive trees and olive oil production have helped the region develop a
Aegean cuisine is in many ways different from Turkish food elsewhere. The shared Turkish and Greek culture of the region's past, the climate and soil suitable for growing a wide range of vegetables, including tasty local greens and herbs, and the prevalence of olive tre
Aegean cuisine is in many ways different from Turkish food elsewhere. The shared Turkish and Greek culture of the region
Aegean cuisine is in many ways different from Turkish food elsewhere. The shared Turkish and Greek culture of the region's past, the climate and soil suitable for growing a wide range of vegetables, including tasty local greens and herbs, and the prevalence of olive trees and olive oil production have helped the region develop a much more varied way of eating that is healthier than in other Turkish regions. Olive oil replaces butter, and fish, rather than meat, is the star on most menus. The class of dishes generally called zeytinya?l? (literally "with olive oil") mostly comes from this region; these are usually comprised of tomatoes, onions, and other vegetables cooked in olive oil and served cold. Vegetarians will be in heaven.
There’s no grilled fish on the menu at this cozy, family-run restaurant—indeed, there’s no menu, and most of the time only one entrée is available: lamb cooked with thyme. But chef and owner Emine Elik serves some of Cunda's most delicious and inventive mezes, with options changing daily but always featuring selections for both vegetarians and seafood eaters. Seating is in a small dining room adjacent to the open kitchen or on the sidewalk and patio in warm weather.
Ayvalık Cad. 20, Cunda, Balikesir, 10400, Turkey
266-327–2834
Known For
Girit lokumu (thick slices of eggplant topped with charred, caramelized walnuts)
Friendly and engaging owner
Comfortable, homey atmosphere
Restaurant Details
Rate Includes: No lunch July and Aug., Reservations essential
Across from the Muradiye Tombs, this soup kitchen built by Sultan Murat II in the 15th century to help feed the poor now houses a restaurant serving Ottoman and Turkish cuisine in wonderfully atmospheric surroundings. Hünkar beğendi (tender lamb on a bed of grilled-eggplant puree) literally means "the Sultan liked it," and it's impossible not to. The place is also known for its meat dishes as well as its Ottoman desserts. The terrace is pleasant, but dine indoors and you'll feel like you're eating in the sultan's quarters. No alcohol is served.
At this decades-old establishment, take in views across the Dardanelles from the rooftop terrace as you enjoy such seafood mezes as grilled octopus in vinegar or sardines wrapped in vine leaves. Non-seafood mezes like fried eggplant with cheese are equally tasty. Fish prices are per kilogram and are not listed on the menu, so be sure to ask before ordering. The same goes for dishes that might show up on the table without you having asked for them. Service can be hit or miss.
The place to be on a busy Bursa weekend evening, this irrepressible meyhane is a local institution, serving a delectable selection of fish fresh from the open-air market on the corner. In the early 1930s, a veteran of the War of Independence nicknamed "Arab" Şükrü opened a fish restaurant here on Sakarya Caddesi, a narrow side street just south of Altıparmak Caddesi; now the whole area carries his name, and his descendants run both this venue and a competing establishment just opposite. The entire street is a lively and popular dining spot, with affable musicians wandering around the many tables.
Sakarya Cad. 6, Bursa, Bursa, 16050, Turkey
224-221–1453
Known For
Live, table-side Turkish classical music
Friendly and animated service
Perfect spot for rakı-balık
Restaurant Details
Rate Includes: No lunch. Closed during Ramadan, Reservations essential
The most popular and probably the most expensive of the waterfront restaurants on Cunda serves a selection of mezes and prepared seafood that is a feast for the eyes as well as the stomach. Many options are original creations based on Greek and Turkish cuisine—squid in saffron sauce, sole in yogurt, akuvadis in whiskey sauce, and cured fish pastırma are among the unusual specialties. There's no menu, so ask to see the mezes and fish before ordering, and inquire about prices—be prepared to pay a lot.
Eager patrons line up outside this little white-and-blue house near the bazaar to enjoy heaping servings of meat, dished up by a grandson of Mehmet İskenderoğlu, who invented the İskender kebap back in 1867 (he's pictured on the wall, opposite Atatürk). The kebab is tender, the portions filling, and the photograph-lined dining rooms quaint. The kitchen closes by 6:30 during the week and 8 on weekends, so go early.
Atatürk Cad. 60, at Orhan Sok., Bursa, Bursa, 16010, Turkey
With excellent food, views of Cunda Island, and a prime location on the Ayvalık waterfront, this restaurant is worth walking down narrow backstreets to find. The mezes, made with Aegean herbs and greens, include some truly local specialties, such as deniz mücver (fried mussel patties) or sole marinated in a lemony mustard sauce. Both the mezes and fish are on display for easy choosing, and service is attentive.
Gazinocular Cad., Belediye arkası, Ayvalik, Balikesir, 10400, Turkey
This local favorite, with seating inside and outside of a traditional Greek house, is packed nearly every night. Despite the crowds, the staff is attentive, kind, and happy to provide recommendations for Tik Mustafa’s rather impressive selection of meze and zeytinyağlı—cold appetizers served in olive oil. While the fish is fresh and can be prepared in a number of ways, saving room for a main course may prove challenging considering the exceptionally delicious appetizers.
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