Konak Meydanı marks the start of this energetic marketplace that spillls into a maze of tiny streets, filled with shops and covered stalls. Wide, unbeautiful Anafartalar Caddesi runs around the outside of the bazaar, and there are lots of cafés and restaurants along Fevzipaşa Bulvarı. You'll have more fun exploring the smaller side streets, where you'll find tiny districts dedicated to musical instruments, leather, costume jewelry, and accessories, among other things. Begin at a restored Ottoman caravansaray, the Kızlarağası Hanı, completed around 1745 (kızlarağası translates as "lord of the girls" and was the title of the powerful eunuch in charge of the palace harem). It houses many vaulted shops selling quality Turkish goods, such as jewelry, miniatures, and prayer rugs for the Hajj pilgrimage, as well as cheesy souvenirs. The nearby, late 16th-century Hisar Mosque (one of the largest and oldest in İzmir) is worth a peek, and surrounded by tasty kebab
joints. Go farther into Kemeraltı and you'll wind up at the Kestane Pazarı (Chestnut Bazaar), a smaller, outdoor version of Istanbul's Spice Bazaar, where you'll find a good selection of spices, fruits, tea, coffee, fabric, and a vast number of confectioners. The bazaar can be crowded, so mind your wallet. If you're a lone female traveler, Kemeraltı should be fine, but it's probably not the best place to try out that new pink miniskirt.