The Central and Southern Aegean Coast
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1. Altınkum
For a break after all the history, continue another 5 km (3 miles) from Didyma south to Altınkum, popular for its pale-sand beach. The sand stretches for a bit less than 1 km (½ mile) and is bordered by a row of bars, restaurants, and hotels, all facing the water. At peak times, a lifeguard watches over the 500-yard, Blue Flag–designated public beach (halk plajı), which quickly gets crowded in summertime. There are some Jet Skis and pedal boats for rent at either end of the halk plajı. Amenities: food and drink; lifeguards; showers; toilets; water sports. Best for: swimming.
Didim, Aydin, Turkey -
2. Didyma
Didyma's Temple of Apollo is as grand in scale as the Parthenon—measuring 623 feet by 167 feet—and has 124 well-preserved columns, some still supporting their architraves. Started in 300 BC and under construction for nearly five centuries, the temple was never completed, and some of the columns remain unfluted. The oracle here rivaled the one at Delphi, and beneath the courtyard is a network of underground corridors used by temple priests for their oracular consultations. The corridor walls would throw the oracle's voice into deep and ghostly echoes, which the priests would interpret. The tradition of seeking advice from a sacred oracle here probably started long before the arrival of the Greeks, who in all likelihood converted an older Anatolian cult based at the site into their own religion. The Greek oracle had a good track record, and at the birth of Alexander the Great (356 BC) predicted that he would be victorious over the Persians, that his general Seleucus would later become king, and that Trajan would become an emperor. Around AD 385, the popularity of the oracle dwindled with the rise of Christianity. The temple was later excavated by French and German archaeologists, and its statues are long gone, hauled back to England by Sir Charles Newton in 1858. Fragments of bas-reliefs on display by the entrance to the site include a gigantic head of Medusa (twin of the one in Istanbul's underground cistern, across from Hagia Sophia) and a small statue of Poseidon and his wife, Amphitrite. You can rent a combined Miletus and Didyma audio guide for 20 TL.
Didim, Aydin, 09453, TurkeySight Details
Rate Includes: TL30; audio guide RL20 -
3. Miletus
The Miletus archaeological site is sprawled out along a desolate plain, and laced with well-marked trails. The parking lot is right outside the city's most magnificent building—the Great Theater, a remarkably intact 15,000-seat, freestanding amphitheater built by the Ionians and maintained by the Romans. The fabulous vomitoria, huge vaulted passages leading to the seats, have the feel of a modern sporting arena. Climb to the top of the theater for a look at the walls of the defensive fortress built atop it by the Byzantines, and a view across the ancient city. To see the rest of the ruins, follow the dirt track down from the right of the theater. A row of buildings marks what was once a broad processional avenue. The series begins with the Delphinion, a sanctuary of Apollo; a stoa (colonnaded porch) with several reerected Ionic columns; the foundations and remaining walls and arches of a Roman bath and gymnasium; and the first story of the Nymphaeum, all that remains of the once highly ornate three-story structure, resembling the Library of Celsus at Ephesus, that once distributed water to the rest of the city. A three-minute drive outside the gates of the site, the small Milet Müzesi presents interesting artifacts from the site and the surrounding area with panache. Their bright displays will help you conjure a vision of ancient Miletus and its world. Ask your tour guide in advance if you can make at least a short stop here. If driving, ask the guards to point you in the right direction as you exit the Miletus archaeological site.
Didim, Aydin, 09290, Turkey256-875–5206-museumSight Details
Rate Includes: TL25 (site and museum); audio guide TL15 -
4. Priene
Spectacularly sited, the remains of Priene are on the top a steep hill above the flat valley of the Büyük Menderes Nehri. First excavated by British archaeologists in 1868–69, the site is smaller than Ephesus and far quieter and less grandiose. One of the most prominent ruins is the Temple of Athena, the work of Pytheos, architect of the Mausoleum at Halicarnassus (one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World) and the design was repeatedly copied at other sites in the Greek empire. Alexander apparently chipped in on construction costs. Between the columns, look on the marble floor for a small circle, crisscrossed with lines like a pizza—a secret symbol of Ionia's ancient Christians. Walk north and then east along the track that leads to the well-preserved little theater, sheltered on all sides by pine trees. Enter through the stage door into the orchestra section and note the five front-row VIP seats, carved thrones with lions' feet. If you scramble up a steep cliff known as Samsun Dağı (behind the theater and to your left as you face the seats), you will find the sparse remains of the Sanctuary of Demeter, goddess of the harvest; only a few remnants of the columns and walls remain, as well as a big hole through which blood of sacrificial victims was poured as a gift to the deities of the underworld. Since few people make it up here, it is an incredibly peaceful spot with a terrific view over Priene and the plains. Beyond are the remnants of a Hellenistic fortress. (Check safety conditions before you climb.)
Güllübahçe, Aydin, 09230, TurkeySight Details
Rate Includes: TL12.5 -
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