Deniz means "sea" in Turkish, an appropriate name for this popular, pricy seafood eatery on the waterfront in Kordonboyu, whose tables spill out of the ground floor of the Izmir Palas Hotel. It's buzzing with local notables, travelers, and a swanky business crowd, who come to splurge on exceptional fish and mezes, including samphire with garlicky yogurt. And it can easily turn into a splurge in terms of price, depending on the number of courses chosen. Tourists
also flock here to try the sütlü balık, a hot appetizer prepared with seabass, grouper, or a similar fish, and béchamel sauce—order this heavy, slow-cooked dish when making a reservation or soon after arriving, or plump for the faster, equally good seabass in creamy basil sauce.