The Central and Southern Aegean Coast Restaurants

Dining out along the Aegean coast is a pleasure, especially if you enjoy seafood and fresh produce. There are countless seafood restaurants at all price ranges. A typical meal includes an assortment of hot and cold meze (appetizers), a mixed salad, and the catch of the day, capped off with a Turkish dessert. To make it authentic, accompany your meal with rak? (a spirit similar in taste to oúzo). Some of the more common fish you'll find along the Aegean coast are levrek (sea bass), çipura (sea bream), barbunya (red mullet), and lahos (grouper), as well as tasty smaller fish like sardalya (sardines). Note that most fish restaurants charge per kilogram for whole fish, and the prices often aren't listed; ask before ordering to avoid receiving an unexpectedly large bill at the end of an otherwise pleasant meal. Of course, there are plenty of meat and kebab restaurants around, too, if that’s what you’re craving.

For dessert, try local dondurma (Turkish ice cream, often thickened with orchid root or mastic resin), as well as milk puddings and baklava. It’s often better to avoid hotel restaurants at lunch and dinner—you can frequently find better and less expensive food a short walk away—but luxury and boutique hotels might be an exception as they are often firm favorites on the local restaurant scene. And don’t forget street snacks! In season, you can grab fat local Smyrna figs; a cup of icy, dark berry ?erbet (think of it as Ottoman Gatorade); or a sesame-studded feta-and-tomato sandwich, each for less than a dollar in central ?zmir. Simit, the classic Turkish bagel-like street snack, is called gevrek in the ?zmir region, and often purchased along with a piece of tulum peyniri (goat's milk cheese) and a hard-boiled egg, following an old Sephardic culinary custom.

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  • 1. İsabey Bağevi

    $$$

    The owners of Sevilen, one of Turkey’s best-known wine brands, have renovated and opened their family home to visitors as a fine-dining restaurant in a bucolic setting near İzmir airport. Grilled meats are the focus of the menu, which also includes tasty salads and starters—along with Sevilen wine pairings, of course. Summertime meals are served under a 300-year-old plane tree that provides cooling shade on a hot day.

    901 Sok. 38, Izmir, Turkey
    232-782–4959

    Known For

    • Lovely setting
    • Dry-aged steaks
    • Summer meals under the plane tree
  • 2. Alsancak Dostlar Fırını

    $

    This very popular bakery in hip Alsancak serves up probably the broadest selection you’ll find of boyoz, a round flaky pastry with Sephardic roots that’s these days almost unique to İzmir. Get yours savory or sweet, or perhaps with a hard-boiled egg on the side in traditional style. Go early for the best selection.

    Kıbrıs Şehitleri Cad. 120, Izmir, Izmir, 35220, Turkey
    232-421–9202

    Known For

    • Sweet boyoz filled with tahini
    • Savory boyoz filled with mixed Aegean herbs
    • Savory boyoz filled with eggplant
  • 3. Ayşa Boşnak Börekçisi

    $

    Fresh, delicious food at reasonable prices in atmospheric surroundings—this is a real find tucked away inside a peaceful stone-walled courtyard amidst the chaotic energy of Kemeraltı bazaar. Make your own plate (cost is by weight) from the colorful variety of lovingly displayed salads, vegetarian dishes, savory pastries, and other home-cooked dishes for a bargain lunch. It closes early, at 7 pm, so it's not a practical dinner option unless you are bringing your food home.

    1437. Sk. 11/A, Konak, Izmir, 35220, Turkey
    232-421–7085

    Known For

    • Assorted börek (savory pastries)
    • Stuffed peppers
    • Closes at 7 pm

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Sun. No dinner
  • 4. Balıkçı Hasan

    $$$

    There are many popular seafood restaurants along the Kordon waterfront in Alsancak, but this one, with indoor and outdoor seating areas and a relaxed feel, is especially busy. It features a good selection of appetizers, including the decadent sütlü karides (shrimp sautéed in butter, then topped with béchamel and mozzarella), as well as the usual seasonal seafood choices.

    Atatürk Cad. 186/A, Izmir, Izmir, 35220, Turkey
    232-464–1354

    Known For

    • Fried calamari
    • Seafood pasta
    • Look for the sign with a picture of a fish (balık), followed by "çı Hasan"
  • 5. Cafe La Cigale

    $$$

    Hidden away on a side street off busy Cumhuriyet Bulvarı, this peaceful garden oasis attached to the French Cultural Center offers a range of well-prepared Mediterranean dishes, including fresh, flavorful salads, pastas, and grilled meats. There's a winter garden for cold-weather days and regular live jazz, generally on Wednesday and Friday nights.

    Cumhuriyet Bul. 152, Izmir, Izmir, Turkey
    232-421–4780

    Known For

    • Risottos
    • Seafood pizza
    • Live music

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Sun.
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  • 6. Can Döner

    $$

    Not far from the clock tower at the entrance of Kemeraltı, this small local favorite has served traditional İskender kebabı (and only İskender kebabı) from the city of Bursa since 1981. The spit-roasted meat is sliced thin and topped with melted butter and tomato sauce. A glass of homemade ayran (salted yogurt drink) is the traditional accompaniment to the meal. Alcohol is not served. Come for lunch or a very early dinner, as they're only open until the meat runs out, usually around 6:30 pm.

    Milli Kütüphane Cad. 6/B, Izmir, Izmir, 35250, Turkey
    232-484–1313

    Known For

    • Ayran (a salted yogurt drink) to accompany the kebabs
    • No alcohol
    • Closes early (by 6:30 or sometimes sooner)

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Sun. No dinner
  • 7. Deniz Restoran

    $$$

    Deniz means "sea" in Turkish, an appropriate name for this popular, pricey seafood eatery on the Kordon waterfront, whose tables spill out of the ground floor of the İzmir Palas Hotel. It's buzzing with local notables, travelers, and a swanky business crowd, who come to splurge on exceptional fish and meze, including samphire with garlicky yogurt. And it can easily turn into a splurge in terms of price, depending on the number of courses chosen.

    Atatürk Cad. 188/B, Izmir, Izmir, 35220, Turkey
    232-464–4499

    Known For

    • Sütlü balık (fish slow-cooked in béchamel sauce)
    • Sea bass in salt crust
    • Can get pricey depending on the number of dishes

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Reservations essential
  • 8. Reyhan Patisserie

    $ | Coffee

    With a huge variety of baked goods and desserts, excellent house-made ice cream and chocolates, this pastry shop has been popular for decades. This branch of the legendary patisserie, in the heart of trendy Alsancak, is also a sit-down café serving coffee and Turkish-style breakfast.

    Dr. Mustafa Enver Bey Cad. 24, Izmir, Izmir, 35260, Turkey
    232-422–2802

    Known For

    • Strawberry cheesecake
    • Profiteroles
    • Sütlaç (creamy rice pudding)

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: No lunch or dinner
  • 9. Sakız Alsancak

    $$$

    By day a popular spot for a fast, fresh lunch, this homey restaurant on the waterfront by the Pasaport pier (it used to be in Alsancak, hence the name) turns into a lively meyhane-style eating and drinking establishment at night. A heaping mixed plate of vegetarian-friendly dishes like stuffed mushrooms, falafel, and fried cauliflower with yogurt is an affordable way to fill up midday; the evening set menu is equally delicious and a good value.

    Atatürk Cad. 158/A, Konak, Izmir, Turkey
    232-464–1103

    Known For

    • Sea bass roll with halloumi cheese
    • Smoked octopus
    • Sea bass with Aegean milk thistle
  • 10. Villa Levante

    $$$

    Fine Turkish and international cuisine served in an attractive secluded gazebo and courtyard make this hotel restaurant in the Bornova suburb worth the 8-km (5-mile) trek from the waterfront for a romantic meal. Villa Levante makes its own wine, best enjoyed with one of the popular cheese and charcuterie platters.

    80. Sok. 25, Izmir, Izmir, Turkey
    232-343–1888

    Known For

    • House-made wine
    • Cheese plates
    • Charcuterie platters
  • 11. Yudumla

    $

    On a hot, hectic day in the Kemeraltı bazaar, you’ll be happy to stumble on this little şerbet stall that’s been selling ice-cold and very delicious fruit juices and nectars since 1971. They sell jars of their own fruit jams, too.

    Kestelli Cad. 2, Konak, Izmir, 35220, Turkey
    232-472–2549

    Known For

    • Black mulberry juice
    • Blueberry juice
    • Red currant juice
  • 12. Lokanta

    $
    Closed Permanently

    Brighter and cheerier than your average lokanta, this casual eatery also aims to put a new—or, perhaps more accurately, old—spin on Turkish home-cooking, incorporating flavors from Jewish cuisine and that of other minority communities that historically resided in İzmir. The menu selections change daily but include hearty dishes such as steamed sea bass, cabbage rolls, and pırasa köfte (leek-and-minced-meat patties).

    Fevzipaşa Bul. Karaosmanoğlu Han 32, Konak, Izmir, Turkey
    232-484–9080

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed weekends and evenings
  • 13. Servet

    $$
    Under Renovation

    The specialty of the house at this lively casual restaurant is çöp şiş, small pieces of skewered grilled lamb interspersed with delectable morsels of lamb fat. The grilled meats come with warm pillowy flatbread, soft cheese, spicy arugula, and grilled onions—nearly a meal in themselves. Alcohol is served.

    Şehit Fethi Bey Cad. 78/C, Izmir, 35210, Turkey
    232-484–0453

    Known For

    • Köfte (meatballs)
    • Ciğer (liver)
    • Kuzu tandır (roasted lamb)

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