The Central and Southern Aegean Coast Restaurants

Dining out along the Aegean coast is a pleasure, especially if you enjoy seafood and fresh produce. There are countless seafood restaurants at all price ranges. A typical meal includes an assortment of hot and cold meze (appetizers), a mixed salad, and the catch of the day, capped off with a Turkish dessert. To make it authentic, accompany your meal with rak? (a spirit similar in taste to oúzo). Some of the more common fish you'll find along the Aegean coast are levrek (sea bass), çipura (sea bream), barbunya (red mullet), and lahos (grouper), as well as tasty smaller fish like sardalya (sardines). Note that most fish restaurants charge per kilogram for whole fish, and the prices often aren't listed; ask before ordering to avoid receiving an unexpectedly large bill at the end of an otherwise pleasant meal. Of course, there are plenty of meat and kebab restaurants around, too, if that’s what you’re craving.

For dessert, try local dondurma (Turkish ice cream, often thickened with orchid root or mastic resin), as well as milk puddings and baklava. It’s often better to avoid hotel restaurants at lunch and dinner—you can frequently find better and less expensive food a short walk away—but luxury and boutique hotels might be an exception as they are often firm favorites on the local restaurant scene. And don’t forget street snacks! In season, you can grab fat local Smyrna figs; a cup of icy, dark berry ?erbet (think of it as Ottoman Gatorade); or a sesame-studded feta-and-tomato sandwich, each for less than a dollar in central ?zmir. Simit, the classic Turkish bagel-like street snack, is called gevrek in the ?zmir region, and often purchased along with a piece of tulum peyniri (goat's milk cheese) and a hard-boiled egg, following an old Sephardic culinary custom.

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  • 21. Musto

    $$$

    This always-hopping waterfront bistro draws a local and tourist crowd with its broad Turkish-international menu of pastas, salads, bar snacks, and grilled meats. Some good local wines are available, too.

    Neyzen Tevfik Cad. 130, Bodrum, Mugla, Turkey
    252-313–3394

    Known For

    • Fried calamari
    • Steaks
    • Full bar and good wine list
  • 22. Sakız Alsancak

    $$$

    By day a popular spot for a fast, fresh lunch, this homey restaurant on the waterfront by the Pasaport pier (it used to be in Alsancak, hence the name) turns into a lively meyhane-style eating and drinking establishment at night. A heaping mixed plate of vegetarian-friendly dishes like stuffed mushrooms, falafel, and fried cauliflower with yogurt is an affordable way to fill up midday; the evening set menu is equally delicious and a good value.

    Atatürk Cad. 158/A, Konak, Izmir, Turkey
    232-464–1103

    Known For

    • Sea bass roll with halloumi cheese
    • Smoked octopus
    • Sea bass with Aegean milk thistle
  • 23. The Lemon Tree

    $$$

    With a big menu of both Turkish and international fare, including pizza, pasta, salads, and grilled meats, this popular spot sits right on the beach in Bitez, with a lovely view of the cove. Service is friendly but can be a bit harried when it’s busy. There is sometimes live music in the evenings.

    Çökertme Cad. 82, Bitez, Mugla, Turkey
    252-363–9543

    Known For

    • Burgers
    • Steaks
    • çökertme kebab (sliced beef served with green peppers and potatoes)
  • 24. Tuval Restaurant

    $$$

    This seafood and grill restaurant at Çeşme Marina has a menu of international and Turkish dishes, spanning everything from meze to pasta, fajitas, grilled lamb chops, and more. The waterside location is lovely, with views of the castle; the winking lights far across the water are from the Greek island of Chios.

    1016 Sok. 2, Çesme, Izmir, 35930, Turkey
    530-824–8383

    Known For

    • Good though pricey selection of wines and cocktails
    • Lovely atmosphere
    • Baked peaches with hazelnut-amaretto biscuits

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Reservations essential
  • 25. Villa Levante

    $$$

    Fine Turkish and international cuisine served in an attractive secluded gazebo and courtyard make this hotel restaurant in the Bornova suburb worth the 8-km (5-mile) trek from the waterfront for a romantic meal. Villa Levante makes its own wine, best enjoyed with one of the popular cheese and charcuterie platters.

    80. Sok. 25, Izmir, Izmir, Turkey
    232-343–1888

    Known For

    • House-made wine
    • Cheese plates
    • Charcuterie platters
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