Fodor's Expert Review Çınaraltı

In business for three decades on Ortaköy's waterfront square, unpretentious Çınaraltı ("under the sycamore") has a massive sycamore tree growing up through its center and shading its upstairs terrace. The balık böreği (a spring roll-esque fish pastry) is a highlight of the wide though fairly standard meze selection, and the fish is mainly served grilled or fried (make sure the price quoted is per fish or serving, not per kilo).