Excursions to the Far East and Black Sea Coast Sights

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City walls Review

The Romans left a strong mark on Diyarbakir—not only did they lay the foundations for its famous city walls, but they created the basic layout of the old town: a rough rectangle with two main streets that cross and connect the four gates that are found at each compass point. The walls were reconstructed by the Byzantine Emperor Constantius in AD 349 and further restored by the Seljuks in 1088 and again 120 years later by Artakid Turcoman emir al Malik al-Salih Mahmud. On the whole, the walls remain in good shape along their entire length; indeed, if you feel like a bit of an adventure, the best way to appreciate these great walls is to wander along the top. Of the original 72 towers, 67 are still standing, decorated with myriad inscriptions in the language of every conqueror and with Seljuk reliefs of animals and men; you can also explore their inner chambers and corridors. The easiest and safest section to explore is around Dag Kapisi (Mountain Gate). Alternatively, to make a circuit of the city walls on foot, start at the Mardin Kapisi (Mardin Gate), on the south side near the Otel Büyük Kervansaray, and take the wall-top path west toward the Urfa Kapisi (Urfa Gate), also called the Bab er-Rum. About halfway you will come to the twin bastions Evli Beden Burcu and Yedi Kardes Burcu —the latter is also known as the Tower of Seven Brothers and was added to the fortifications in 1209. From here you can see the old Ottoman bridge over the Tigris, called Dicle Köprüsü (Tigris Bridge). Continue clockwise along the city wall, and you'll eventually reach another gate, the Dag Kapisi (Mountain Gate), which divides Diyarbakir's old and new towns. Farther east, inside the ramparts, are the sad remains of the Artakid Saray (Artasid Palace), surrounded by a dry, octagonal pool known as the Lion's Fountain. Not long ago there were two carved lions here, now there's only one; what happened to the other is a mystery.

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