Austria's Empress Elisabeth paved the way (spending an entire summer here with a retinue of 60 people). The Russian Tsarina and German Emperor Wilhelm II followed; Richard Wagner arrived and premiered the first act of his Die Walküre here, accompanied on the piano by his father-in-law, Franz Liszt. Kings and queens, empresses and dukes took turns visiting (but let's not forget Arthur Rubinstein, Marc Chagall, Henry Moore, and Placido Domingo), making this hotel a truly upper-crust establishment ever since it opened its doors in 1844. The perfume of days gone by has, alas, largely dissipated, and there is nary an empress, duchess, or maharajah in sight these days. This is still one highbrow patrician—it even goes so far as to turn its broad back to the commercial center; its front rooms overlook the lake, the canal, and the manicured lawns of its own private park. Le Hall, the vast lobby, has a Jugenstil flavor and is just the place to apertif the late afternoon away. Upstairs, the signature classic room decor gleams with rich fabrics, Empire mirrors, and such ultramodern comforts as triple-glazed windows and CD players. In summer, meals (including breakfast) are served in the glassed-in pavilion along the canal; in winter, in the glowing Restaurant Français.
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