From Stravinsky, Brecht, and Joyce to Nureyev, Deneuve, and Saint-Laurent, this beloved landmark has always drawn a stellar crowd. The vast dining salon is a former 1845 beer hall but now has a Sezession vibe. The interior goes way beyond Art Nouveau, though, as the eye is drawn to medieval heraldic crests painted high up on the walls and, hanging just below them, an astonishing collection of 20th-century art. Every panel of gleaming wood wainscoting frames works by Picasso, Braque, Miró, Chagall, or Matisse, collected by patroness-hostess Hulda Zumsteg (her riches come from the family's legendary couture textiles firm), who owned the restaurant from 1921 until her death in 1985. The tradition is carried on by the family trust, and robust cooking is still served in hefty portions: fish in sage butter, veal steak in morel sauce, duck à l'orange with red cabbage, and Spätzli. There's no shame in ordering the sausage and Rösti just to take in the animated and genial scene.
Reviewed by gmp1cpa from Boston, MA on 2/22/09
My absolute favorite! Every time I'm in Zurich (3-4 times a year), I make sure I make a reservation here.
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