Dating from 1801, this was once the haunt of Zürich's beloved writer Gottfried Keller. One section is a dark and heavily graffitied bar, with sagging timbers and slanting floors; there are also two welcoming little dining rooms with coffered ceilings and plenty of carved oak and damask—opt for the cozy, charming Gaststube (not the more staid Stübli). Traditional meat dishes—calves' liver, Geschnetzeltes Kalbfleisch—are lightened up with fresh seasonal veggies. The place is always packed, and service can be slow, so stake out a table and plan to spend the evening. Guest who succeed in swinging around the room's famous wooden rafters three times wins free wine for their table. You'd be amazed at the number of diners who make the attempt.