Vaud
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1. Cathédrale de Notre-Dame
Old TownA Burgundian Gothic architectural treasure, this cathedral is Switzerland's largest church—and probably its finest. Begun in the 12th century by Italian, Flemish, and French architects, it was completed in 1275. Pope Gregory X came expressly to perform the historic consecration ceremony—of double importance, because it also served as a coronation service for Rudolf of Habsburg as the new Holy Roman emperor. Eugene Viollet-le-Duc, a renowned restorer who worked on the cathedrals of Chartres and Notre-Dame-de-Paris, brought portions of the building to Victorian Gothic perfection in the 19th century. His repairs are visible as paler stone contrasting with the weathered local sandstone. Streamlined to the extreme, without radiating chapels or the excesses of later Gothic trim, the cathedral wasn't always so spare; in fact, there was brilliant painting. Zealous Reformers plastered over the florid colors, but in so doing they unwittingly preserved them, and now you can see portions of these splendid shades restored in the right transept. The dark and delicate choir contains the 14th-century tomb of the crusader Otto I of Grandson and exceptionally fine 13th-century choir stalls, unusual for their age alone, not to mention their beauty. The church's masterpiece, the 13th-century painted portal, is considered one of Europe's most magnificent. A tribute to 21st-century technology, the 7,000-pipe organ fills the sanctuary with swells of sacred music. Holding fast to tradition, the cathedral has maintained a guet, or "lookout," since 1405. The guet sleeps in the belfry and is charged with crying out every hour on the hour between 10 pm and 2 am. Visitors are not allowed during the Protestant services (the cathedral was reformed in the 16th century) on Sunday before 11 am and after 6 pm. You may want to come instead for the evening concerts held almost weekly in spring and autumn. Guided tours are given July through September.
Pl. de la Cathédrale, Lausanne, Vaud, 1004, Switzerland021-3167161 -
2. Château de Chillon
One of Switzerland's must-sees is the Château de Chillon, the awe-inspiringly picturesque 12th-century castle that rears out of the water at Veytaux, down the road from and within sight of Montreux. Chillon was built on Roman foundations under the direction of Duke Peter of Savoy with the help of military architects from Plantagenet England. For a long period it served as a state prison, and one of its shackled guests was François Bonivard, who supported the Reformation and enraged the Savoyards. He spent six years in this prison, chained most of the time to a pillar in the dungeon before being released by the Bernese in 1536. While living near Montreux, Lord Byron visited Chillon and was so transported by its atmosphere and by Bonivard's grim sojourn that he was inspired to write his famous poem "The Prisoner of Chillon." Like a true tourist, Byron carved his name on a pillar in Bonivard's still-damp and chilly dungeon; his sgraffito is now protected under a plaque. In high season, you must file placidly from restored chamber to restored turret, often waiting at doorways for entire busloads of fellow visitors to pass. Yet the 19th-century Romantic-era restoration is so evocative and so convincing, with its tapestries, carved fireplaces, period ceramics and pewter, and elaborate wooden ceilings, that even the jaded castle hound may become as carried away as Byron was. While you're waiting your turn, gaze out the narrow windows over the sparkling, lapping water and remember Mark Twain, who thought Bonivard didn't have it half bad. Proceeds from the purchase of a bottle of Clos de Chillon, the white wine from estate vineyards, goes to restoration activities.
21 av. de Chillon, Veytaux, Vaud, 1820, Switzerland021-9668910Sight Details
Rate Includes: SF14 -
3. Fondation de l'Hermitage
SauvabelinA 15-minute bus ride from Old Town takes you to this beautifully set 19th-century country home. The estate is now an impressive art gallery with a fine permanent collection of Vaudois artists and headline-grabbing, yet seriously presented, blockbuster shows. Exhibits have included the works of Pablo Picasso, Alberto Giacometti, and the American impressionists. Details of the elegant villa have been preserved, including intricate moldings, carved fireplaces, and multipatterned parquet floors. Allow time for a walk on the grounds and coffee at L'esquisse, the café surrounded by the outlying orangery. To get here, take Bus No. 3 from Gare Centrale to the Motte stop or Bus No. 16 from Place St-François to Hermitage.
2 rte. du Signal, Lausanne, Vaud, 1018, Switzerland021-3125013Sight Details
Rate Includes: SF19, Closed Mon. -
4. Plateforme 10
City CenterSecuring its reputation as the region's cultural capital, Lausanne now has its own arts district on the Plateforme 10 site next to the train station. The Musée Cantonal des Beaux-Arts (MCBA), Musée d'Elysée (Cantonal Photography Museum), and mudac (Museum of Contemporary Design and Applied Arts) have fused here to bridge the divide between the city's excellent collections of fine art, photography, design, and textiles. More than just a gathering of museums, the site is fast becoming a destination in itself, with concerts, shows, exhibitions, and other cultural events setting Lausanne's strong arts community abuzz.
16 pl. de la Gare, Lausanne, Vaud, 1003, Switzerland021-3162555Sight Details
Rate Includes: Closed Mon -
5. Alimentarium
The Nestlé Foundation, a dynamic force in the region, sponsors this unconventional museum devoted to the celebration and study of food. In a stainless-steel kitchen, chefs demonstrate their skills, and displays on food preparation cover everything from the campfire to futuristic equipment. Other sections focus on merchants, supermarkets, food presentation, and marketing. You can also stroll through herb and vegetable gardens. The exhibits have material in English, and some are interactive.
Quai Perdonnet, Vevey, Vaud, 1800, Switzerland021-9244111Sight Details
Rate Includes: SF13, Closed Mon. -
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6. Arc en Vins
Featuring a range of different Lavaux and Chablais wines, this winery also makes blends combining less prevalent varieties. Try: an unusual white, Charmont de Lavaux, which is a Chasselas-Chardonnay cross.
19 rte. du Verney, Puidoux, Vaud, 1070, Switzerland021-9463343Sight Details
Rate Includes: Closed Mon. -
7. Association Viticole de Corseaux
Although this group of winemakers presents fewer than 20 selections, there are pleasant surprises. Try the Pinot Noir Le Corsalin, which is powerfully structured yet silky. Note, too, that it's worth stopping here just for the lake-and-mountain views.
20 rue du Village, Corseaux, Vaud, 1802, Switzerland021-9213185Sight Details
Rate Includes: Closed Sun. -
8. Au Clos de la République
This 13th-generation winemaker has stunning cellars that hold wines from across Lavaux and bear witness to its different soil types. The Passerillé de Lavaux, a Chasselas dessert wine, is part of a trend to develop Chasselas's potential, also as a wine to age.
Ruelle du Petit-Crêt Epesses, Epesses, Vaud, 1098, Switzerland021-7991444Sight Details
Rate Includes: Closed Sun. -
9. Auberge du Vigneron
Many Vaudois say the terrace here boasts the best view in all Lavaux. Stop here, in the dining room or bistro, for Lavaux wines paired with light French cuisine or traditional Swiss dishes, or just come by for a drink between mealtimes.
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10. Blonay–Chamby Railroad
Transportation Site (Airport, Bus, Ferry, Train)From Vevey and Montreux, a number of railways climb into the heights, which in late spring are carpeted with an extravagance of wild narcissus blooms. If you like model railroads, you will especially enjoy a trip on the Blonay–Chamby Railroad, whose real steam-driven trains alternate with electric trains. You can depart from either end (parking is more plentiful in Blonay); trains make a stop at a small museum of railroad history in between. The trip takes about 20 minutes each way, not including a browse in the museum.
3 pl. de la Gare, , Vaud, 1001, Switzerland021-9432121Sight Details
Rate Includes: 20 SF round-trip, May–Oct., weekends 10–6:30, 20 SF round-trip (includes museum admission), Closed Nov.–Apr. and weekdays from May–Oct. -
11. Céligny
With its lakefront setting, small port, lawns for sunbathing, and pier, the endearing village of Céligny provides the best swimming opportunities for miles around. The enclave, 6 km (4 miles) north of Coppet, is wholly charming: rows of vineyards, a historic (but private) château and church, and a village square adorned with flowers and a stone fountain. Richard Burton made his home here during the last years of his life. You can visit the village cemetery, where you'll find Burton's simple grave in the smaller area, hugging the edge of the forest.
Coppet, Vaud, Switzerland -
12. Château d'Aigle
On sabbatical from a fairy-tale storybook, the 15th-century spire-and-turreted Château d'Aigle offers a close-up look at winemaking history and promotion. First peruse display casks, bottles, presses, and winemakers' tools in the wood-beamed chambers of the Musée de la vigne et du vin (Vine and Wine Museums of Vaud), in the chateau. Some living quarters are reproduced, and there's even a collection of costumes worn over the centuries at the local Fête des Vignerons. The separate Musée de l'étiquette (Museum of Wine Labels), in a timbered attic in an adjacent warehouse called the Maison de la Dîme, chronicles the history of prestigious vintages through a collection of labels representing more than 50 countries and dating back 200 years. Pay an additional fee for a tasting of the local vintages and take the souvenir glass with you.
Aigle, Vaud, Switzerland024-4662130Sight Details
Rate Includes: 11 SF, 11 SF additional for wine tasting, Apr.–Oct., Tues.–Fri. 11–6, Closed Mon. and Nov.–Mar. -
13. Château de Coppet
It's the Château de Coppet that puts this lake village on the map. Enclosed within vast iron gates, the château has been kept in its original 18th-century form, with luxurious Louis XVI furnishings arranged in a convincingly lived-in manner; its grounds, which harbor grand old trees, hidden courtyards, and stone stairs, are equally evocative. Built in the 1300s, the château was restored when purchased in 1784 by Jacques Necker, a Genevan banker who served as financial minister to France's Louis XVI. The turmoil of the French Revolution and Necker's opposition to Napoléon forced him into exile in this splendid structure, where his remarkable daughter, Madame de Staël, created the most intriguing salon in Europe. Her intellectual sparkle and concern for the fiery issues of the day attracted the giants of the early Romantic period: Lord Byron, the Swiss historian Jean-Charles Sismondi, the German writer August Wilhelm von Schlegel, and British historian Edward Gibbon. Part of the château is still occupied by family descendants, but you can see the interior on a guided tour. The language of the commentary is generally chosen according to the language of the tour participants; tours in English are not always available.
3 chemin des Murs, Coppet, Vaud, 1296, Switzerland022-7761028Sight Details
Rate Includes: 10 SF, Apr.–Oct., daily 2–6, Closed Nov.–Mar. -
14. Château de Nyon
Dominating Nyon's hilltop over the waterfront is the Château de Nyon, a magnificent, 12th-century, multispire fortress with a terrace that takes in sweeping views of the lake and Mont Blanc. Its spacious rooms hold the collection of the Musée Historique, which traces the history of the castle inhabitants from the dukes of Savoy (1293–1536) through occupation by the Bernese (1536–1798) to reclamation by the canton after the Vaud revolution. The upper floors held prisoners until 1979, and the city council and courts met in chambers here until 1999. Exhibits throughout highlight the city's position as a renowned porcelain center. Modern-day conversions include a marriage salon and a caveau des vignerons (wine cellar) featuring wines of local growers.
Pl. du Château, Nyon, Vaud, 1260, Switzerland022-3164273Sight Details
Rate Includes: SF8, includes Musée du Léman and Musée Romain, Closed Mon. -
15. Château St-Maire
Old TownThe fortresslike elements of this 15th-century stone cylinder certainly came into play. The castle was built for the bishops of Lausanne; during the 16th century the citizens wearied of ecclesiastical power and allied themselves with Bern and Fribourg against the bishops protected within. Before long, however, Bern itself marched on Lausanne, put a bailiff in this bishops' castle, and stripped the city fathers of their power. Today the Château St-Maire is the seat of the cantonal government.
Pl. du Château, Lausanne, Vaud, 1004, Switzerland -
16. Cimetière du Bois-de-Vaux
Always adorned with white flowers, as was her signature style, the grave of Coco Chanel lies within a large wooded cemetery park on the western edge of the city. Urban legend has it that Mademoiselle Chanel's beloved companion, her dog, is buried not far away in the pet cemetery on the grounds of the stately Beau-Rivage Palace. The cemetery is accessible by the No. 25 bus toward Bourdonnette or the Nos. 1 and 6 toward Maladière.
2 rte. de Chavannes, Lausanne, Vaud, 1007, Switzerland -
17. Collection de l'Art Brut
BeaulieuThis singular museum focuses on the genre of fringe or "psychopathological" art, dubbed l'art brut (raw art) in the 1940s by French artist Jean Dubuffet. His own collection forms the base of this ensemble of raw material from untrained minds—prisoners, schizophrenics, or the merely obsessed. Strangely enough, the collection is housed in the Château de Beaulieu, a former mansion of Madame de Staël, she of the sophisticated salons. The exhibits range from intricate yarn and textile pieces to a wall full of whimsical seashell masks. One of the most affecting works is a panel of rough carvings made by an asylum patient in solitary confinement; it was shaped with a broken spoon and a chamber-pot handle. You can get here by walking up Avenue Vinet or by taking Bus No. 2 from Place St-François in the direction of Désert.
11 av. des Bergières, Lausanne, Vaud, 1004, Switzerland021-3152570Sight Details
Rate Includes: SF12, free 1st Sat. of month, Closed Mon. Sept.–June -
18. Débarcadère
OuchyIn fine weather the waterfront buzzes day and night—strollers, diners, concertgoers, in-line skaters, artisans selling their wares—while the white steamers that land here add to the traffic.
Pl. du Port 1, Lausanne, Vaud, 1006, Switzerland -
19. Espace Ballon
The technical and sporting elements of hot-air ballooning that put this tiny village on the world map are highlighted at Espace Ballon, a museum and exhibition space run by professional pilots. Permanent and changing shows follow the history of avionics, challenges shared by flying enthusiasts, and flight records that have been broken by adventurers like Bertrand Piccard and Brian Jones, whose Breitling Orbiter set off from a nearby meadow. In addition, there are 3-D movies that take the viewer along for a ride, or you can schedule your own voyage into the thermals. The annual hot-air ballooning festival gets off the ground in late January in a spectacle featuring more than 100 vibrant balloons. On Friday night a nightglow is held. Scramble to the top of the hill that has the church (look for the steeple) for a stunning view of brilliantly colored, backlit balloons choreographed to music. A lively village fair follows.
La Place, Château-d'Oex, Vaud, 1660, Switzerland026-9242220Sight Details
Rate Includes: 8 SF, Dec.–Oct., Tues.–Sun 2–6, Closed Mon. and Nov. -
20. Glacier 3000
The ride on Glacier 3000, an aerial cableway strung from its station at Col du Pillon 7 km (4 miles) outside the resort village of Les Diablerets to a shelf at Scex-Rouge, is a thrill and well worth the steep fare. Vistas of Alpine peaks, vast meadows, and clusters of sloping-roof farmhouses extend to Lac Léman and the Jura Mountains. The 20-minute ascent is done in two segments, ending at the metallic, jewelry-box-shaped restaurant designed by world-famous architect Mario Botta.
View Tours and ActivitiesLes Diablerets, Vaud, Switzerland024-4920923Sight Details
Rate Includes: Round-trip 79 SF, includes admission to four activities, including Tissot Peak Walk, May–late Sept., daily 9–4:50; mid-Oct.–Apr., daily 9–4:30
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