Fond of Fondue

Fond of Fondue

Though fondue is de rigueur in any Alpine setting, Vaud is a fanatical stronghold. In the Pays-d'Enhaut (Highlands), cattle head uphill in summer, and production of local cheeses—the firm, fragrant Gruyère and L'Etivaz—soars. They are sold at various stages: young and mild, ripe and savory, or aged to a heady tang. Take a guided hike from Chateaux-d'Oex to the highland pastures to see all aspects of cheese making and then share a bubbly pot of perfection.

Fondue is simply cheese melted together with white wine, garlic, and a dash of kirsch. Aficionados debate the perfect blend of cheeses and whether to include mushrooms, tomatoes, and even chunks of potatoes. Most restaurants serve a blend of Gruyère, Emmental, and Appenzeller; others have their own recipe. The especially popular moite-moite (half and half) is half Gruyère and half bold l'Etivaz or creamy Vacherin.

Diners dip chunks of bread on long forks into the bubbling mixture. Many restaurants serve fondue in an adjoining carnotzet or Stübli (French and German versions of a cozy pub)—both to re-create a rustic Alpine experience and to spare fellow diners the fierce aromas of cheese, garlic, and the fuel that keeps the fondue melted. It's a dish best suited to winter.

Appropriate accompaniments are a fruity white wine or plain black tea—never red wine, beer, or cola—and the traditional coup du milieu (shot in the middle), a reviving midmeal shot of kirsch. The salty cheese will make you yearn for water; go light and never with ice. Custom dictates that if you lose your bread in the caquelon, women must kiss the host or nearest man, while men buy another round.