If you've worked up an appetite climbing Sion's Tourbillon or Valère, stop in at this Old Town eatery on your way back down. Unfussy service, fine French cuisine with some Asian touches, and a rustic-cottage setting make it a sentimental favorite. Seasonal items—mushrooms, asparagus, shellfish, and game—lend variety to the upscale menu; at lunchtime, the 52 SF menu du jour serves a good sampling. When it's not mealtime, drop in for a coffee or a bottle of wine. The garden is open in season.