Locals and chalet dwellers in the know gather at this central, no-smoking restaurant on the ground floor of the Ermitage. Eccentric owner Jean-Marc, known as Babouin (baboon), mans the stoves while his wife Lisette welcomes diners. Lunch has a casual vibe, with paper placemats on the wooden tables. In between meals, place settings are removed to create a café where you can order coffee or other beverages.When the tables are set again for dinner, linen and candles are added. Wood-fire grill specialties and homemade pasta are staples, but the daily specials are equally tempting. During the week, lunchtime plats du jour are a good value. In a region where chicken is difficult to find, the poussin with fries is a treat.