Just before entering the Valais, this stone relais (inn), hewn of boulders from the gorge that separates Bex and St-Maurice, is a good place for a meal or an overnight. It may seem an unlikely location for a gourmet kitchen, but the place has been operating successfully for decades—then again, it is near the Bex salt mines, fascinating to visit, and the thermal baths at Lavey. In the multilevel dining room, contrasts between old and new, rustic and sophisticated, add interest to the dramatic open space. The menu of updated classics changes seasonally but meat grilled in the fireplace and served with potatoes au gratin or in their jackets with sour cream is a year-round favorite. Reserve one of the upper-level guest rooms and you can stay put after dinner.
Rte. de Lavey, St-Maurice, 1880, Switzerland