Heading south toward the San Bernardino pass on the A13, turn off at Thusis and follow the sign for the Via Mala. This "bad road" was used by Romans and traders over centuries. It runs about 6 km (3½ mi) alongside the narrow Hinterrhein gorge. Shortly after the start of the gorge, climb down 321 steps (for a fee of 5 SF) to view the river, rock formations, a mid-18th-century bridge, and the old road itself. Continue to Zillis (Postpl, www.zillis-st-martin.ch)
to see the church's renowned 12th-century painted wood ceiling, whose 153 panels mostly depict stories from the Bible. It is one of the world's oldest original artistic works from the Romanesque era.
Chur, Graubünden, Switzerland