This big-city hotel in the center of town was built in 1896 and still offers grand public areas with carved wood and moldings alongside slick and postmodern guest rooms that leave romantic fantasty behind. While the Victorian splendor can sometimes seem oppressive, the lighter touch is seen in the ceiling of the guests' dining room, with its glittering birch forest painted by Gottardo Segantini, son of the Italian artist. Southern-facing rooms have balconies with unimpeded views of the Alpine lakeside panorama; rooms on the fifth floor are the newest. The informal Acla restaurant serves up solid meals such as chateaubriand and Wiener schnitzel; its outdoor terrace is open in summer and winter (in good weather). Three basement bars, featuring live music, are resort staples on weekends. The rooftop wellness center offers saunas, steam baths, massages, and superb views over the lake.