Geneva

The République et Canton de Genève (Republic and Canton of Geneva) commands sweeping views of the French Alps and the French Jura from its fortuitous position at the southwestern tip of Lac Léman. The water flows straight through the city center and into the River Rhône en route to Lyon and the Mediterranean, leaving museums, shops, restaurants, and parks to jostle for space on its history-laden south shore, known as Rive Gauche. Busy shopping streets underline the hilltop Vieille Ville, the Plaine de Plainpalais lies to its west, and Eaux-Vives stretches along the quays to the east.

The quartier international (International Area), the Gare Cornavin, and sumptuous waterfront hotels dominate the north shore, or Rive Droite. St-Gervais, just north of the Ponts de l'Ile, was once a watchmaking quarter. Les Pâquis, a mix of artists, ethnic communities, and scrappy pleasure seekers, extends north from the Pont du Mont-Blanc. The International Area, on the outer edge of the city, is a short tram ride from Gare Cornavin; all other neighborhoods are easily toured on foot.

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  • 1. Fondation Martin Bodmer

    The museum that sources this humbling exhibition of original texts—from cuneiform tablets, papyrus scrolls, and parchment to a dizzying array of first editions—maps the history of human thought. Dramatic displays of bas-reliefs and dimly lighted Egyptian books of the dead give way to Homer's Iliad; handwritten Gospels according to Matthew and John; exquisite copies of the Koran; a perfectly preserved Gutenberg Bible; Shakespeare (the complete works, published in 1623); an autographed score by Mozart; Oliver Twist; the Communist Manifesto; and Alice in Wonderland. A comprehensive printed guide is available in English. Energetic sightseers can get here on foot; otherwise, take the A bus from Rond-point de Rive and get off at Cologny-Temple. The ride takes 12 minutes.

    19–21 Martin Bodmer, Cologny, Geneva, 1223, Switzerland
    022-7074436

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    Rate Includes: SF15, Closed Mon.
  • 2. Jardin Botanique

    International Area

    These 69 peaceful acres of winding paths and streams bear witness to Geneva's early-19th-century fascination with botany. They also include tropical greenhouses, beds of irises and roses, rock gardens, an aviary, a deer park, a garden of scent and touch, a living catalog of economically useful and medicinal plants, a seed bank, and a formidable research institute. Several of the trees predate 1700. The main entrance is opposite the World Trade Organization.

    154 rue de Lausanne, Geneva, Geneva, 1292, Switzerland
    022-4185100

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    Rate Includes: Free
  • 3. Jet d'Eau

    Eaux-Vives

    The city's landmark fountain, which shoots 132 gallons of water—the equivalent of four standard bathtubs—459 feet into the air every second at 125 mph, can be seen throughout downtown. The parks and promenades around the lake offer the opportunity to see it from almost 360 degrees, and a wooden walkway on the pier at dock Gustave-Ador makes it easier to view up close.

    Off Quai Gustave-Ador, Geneva, Geneva, 1207, Switzerland
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  • 4. Monument de la Réformation

    Vieille Ville

    Conceived on a grand scale and erected between 1909 and 1917, this solemn 325- by 30-foot swath of granite pays homage to the 16th-century religious movement spearheaded by Guillaume Farel, Jean Calvin, Théodore de Bèze, and John Knox. Smaller statues of major Protestant figures, bas-reliefs, and inscriptions connected with the Reformation flank the lifelike giants as they hover over Bern, Geneva, and Edinburgh's coats of arms. Roger Williams is surrounded by Pilgrims praying on the deck of the Mayflower, and near Oliver Cromwell is the 1689 presentation of the Bill of Rights to King William and Queen Mary by the English Houses of Parliament. The Reformation's—and Geneva's—motto, Post Tenebras Lux (After Darkness, Light), spreads over the whole. The location is just below the Vieille Ville.

    Parc des Bastions, Geneva, Geneva, 1204, Switzerland
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  • 5. Musée International de la Croix-Rouge et du Croissant-Rouge

    International Area

    The museum focuses on three major challenges in today's "Humanitarian Adventure:" defending human dignity, restoring family links, and reducing natural risks. The artifacts and artwork in each section are complemented by the life-size videos of 12 witnesses sharing their heart-wrenching personal stories that include surviving a land mine in Kabul and identifying tsunami victims in Japan. An audio guide, available in English, is included in the price.

    17 av. de la Paix, Geneva, Geneva, 1202, Switzerland
    022-7489525

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    Rate Includes: SF15, Closed Mon.
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  • 6. Palais des Nations

    International Area

    Built between 1929 and 1936 for the League of Nations, this monumental compound became the European office of the United Nations in 1946 and quickly evolved into the largest center for multilateral diplomacy in the world. Today it hosts some 9,000 conferences and 25,000 delegates each year; it is also the largest nexus for United Nations operational activities after New York. Security is tight: be prepared to show your passport and arrive at least 45 minutes before your scheduled tour. Points of particular interest include the Assembly Hall, the largest of 34 conference rooms, where the UN General Assembly and scores of world leaders have met, and the ornate Council Chamber, home to the Conference on Disarmament, which glows with allegorical murals. Tours last about one hour and are conducted in 15 languages, including English.

    14 av. de la Paix, Geneva, Geneva, 1202, Switzerland
    022-9174896

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    Rate Includes: SF15
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  • 7. Site Archéologique Cathédrale St-Pierre

    Vieille Ville

    Archaeologists found multiple layers of history underneath the Cathédrale St-Pierre when its foundations began to falter in 1976. Excavations have so far yielded remnants of two 4th-century Christian sanctuaries, mosaic floors from the late Roman Empire, three early churches, and an 11th-century crypt. The first Romanesque cathedral on the site was built in 1000. Audio guides in English and careful lighting help navigate the (reinforced) underground maze that remains.

    6 cour St-Pierre, Geneva, Geneva, 1204, Switzerland
    022-3117574

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    Rate Includes: SF8

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