At this relaxed corner brasserie opposite the Grand Théâtre, black-and-white floor tiles offset warm yellow walls, wedding-cake ceilings, and portraits of Beethoven, Verdi, Strauss, and Liszt. The menu focuses on the Swiss version of comfort food, starting with soups and salads, moving on to pasta, fish, and sirloin with the special house butter, and ending with desserts that taste as good as they look. Time your arrival carefully, as it's bursting with business folk
at lunch, and pre- and post-opera crowds sweep through at night; an alternative is afternoon tea. Try and sit in the brasserie or on the terrace; it's livelier than the dining room.